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Fresh B series Big Block w/ heavy oil consumption

Grancuda

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Got a fresh, fully rebuilt motor that sat in my garage for 10 years.

Motor has 2, 6 & 8 holes fouling plugs w/oil. Going thru a quart every 200 miles or so. Not sure if non-seated moly rings would use this much oil or if possibly an intake leak could suck that oil from under the valley pan, I didn't use paper gaskets on the intake.

Motor is still in the car & I think I am going to pull the intake & put paper style gaskets on the intake & some new plugs & see if it changes.
 
If it was not stored in a dry climate or protected from rust inside you will have to disassemble.
hone and use a new ring set
 
I pulled the heads before I put it in & it was fresh with clean walls & no rust. Thru out the years I would oil & turn it over.
 
just to make sure rings are free or spray pb blaster in cylinder turn over and let sit/ turn over with key without plugs in it with cardboard . all the oil keeping it rust free can possibly do what your saying but who knows.
i have an old rebuild sitting the same way i had the thought of the seals not sealing . maybe a valve pulled a valve guide seal on the head allowing oil to pass ? rubber of teflon.
 
When I popped the heads it was super clean with a little oil in each cylinder. I just wiped them out, turned it over a few times inspecting the cylinder walls & put the heads back on. The oil consumption has got worse with time. I have roughy 1800 miles on it. I was thinking it was the moly rings just needed to seat but they should have already seated. The 5 other cylinders are fine & plugs come out clean like a new motor should.

Here are the specs:

Cylinder Block casting #4006530-400-3, date 01-22-76, block vatted, oil gallerys cleaned, magnufluxed, block squared, alighned hone, cylinders bored 0.030 & honed with torque plates on a Sunnen CK10 machine, pistons fitted to cylinders, connecting rods magnafluxed & resized with Mopar Perf. Rod bolts, 9.0 to 1 compression, cast pistons, Speed Pro Moly Rngs, Clevite 77 rod & main bearings.

Cylinder heads- 452 castings, magnafluxed, 3-angle valve job, surfaced, new trw valves, harden valve seats, Mopar Perf. Valve springs #P3690933, TRW steel retainers, silicone valve seals, bronze guide liners, Mopar Perf. Head bolts, stock int. & exh. ports.

Mopar Perf. P4452783 resto camshaft & lifters, spec. Lift 450/458-dur 268/264, Cloyes double roller timing chain & gear set, cam degreed in, Mellings oil pump #m63hp, Mellings oil pick up, clevite cam bearings, Mopar windage tray, Fel Pro gaskets.
 
How much was taken off of the heads? Just a thought, I'm sure you know after a certain amount taken off of the heads, the intake needs to be machined to match. Bolt holes slotted too.

Just thinking that a gap under the intake would pull oil from under the valley pan. 2,6,8 cylinders fouling, same side...
 
so,
With all this info...antoher question...
Has the engine EVER been started since the machine work & re-build?
 
so,
With all this info...antoher question...
Has the engine EVER been started since the machine work & re-build?

Not until after I popped the heads off to make sure the cyl walls weren't rusty from sitting.
 
intake is probably cocked and sucking oil on the even fire side. paper gaskets won't fit unless the heads or intake are machined for them. i doubt there is a ring issue, unless they're upside down.
 
I'm curious. How does it run? Does it make power?

Have you done a compression test? What is the cranking compression?

Thanks.
 
I'm curious. How does it run? Does it make power?

Have you done a compression test? What is the cranking compression?

Thanks.

Runs good, pulls hard like good running 383's I have had in the past as long as the plugs aren't oil soaked.

I haven't done a compression check but I am going to.
 
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if you suspect rings then do a cylinder leakage test. also examine the intake gasket for uneven pull down.
 
Compression and leak down test with valve cover removed would pay close attention to valve guides. If you built this your self you know how it was put together if not I would check everything.
 
Have a friend that had ring sealing issues and the only fix for him was to hone the cylinders for the rings that he was using. He did not want to do it, but in the end he had no real choice. It did fix his oil consumption problems.

edit: It had been honed wrong when first done.
 
Pulled the intake & it was kind of oily around the ports. Put FelPro paper gaskets on yesterday & took it out today. Put about 60 miles on it, took it out to the lake since it was in the 70's today. Pulled the plugs & they are all clean & it doesn't have an oil smell to the exhaust. We will see if it is fixed but at the moment it seems its all it was.

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Glad you found an easy fix! And you sure look pretty young to be driving :D
 
If you ever suspect a manifold leak, one way to verify it is to plug the crankcase vents and put a vacuum gauge on the dipstick tube. If it pulls a vacuum, you have a leaky intake gasket. I learned that the hard way on a 427 Ford when I was a kid.
 
I'm surprised you got paper gaskets in the intake, but then again it appears the bead on the valley pan wasn't crushed so that would explain a big gap at the ports - and the oil consumption. Glad it's good now.
 
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