FRONT DRUM and/or HUB ASSEMBLY

[B-Body Bruce]

I have had a couple of different opinions on weather the front drum/hub are separate on a 65 Coronet. Mine are so rusted together that it is hard for me to tell. The parts stores lists the drum as as separate from the hub assembly. It has been so darn long ago that I have worked on drum brakes in front on a mopar..that I can't remember. I guess I could just soak them down with some PB BLASTER and smack the drum around the hub area and see what happens.If any one can settle this for me..I would appreciate it....Thanks all......

 

[lewtot184]

drums and hubs are separate.

 

[Cranky]

The studs are supposed to have a shoulder that the drum fits over and then the shoulders are swagged to make the drum tight to the hub and make it fit as one piece....

 

[B-Body Bruce]

The studs are supposed to have a shoulder that the drum fits over and then the shoulders are swagged to make the drum tight to the hub and make it fit as one piece....

Thanks Cranky. Then I would assume with some persuasion with out any special puller etc. that the drum and hub can be separated?

 

[1moreproject]

This is how I did it.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?t=29145&highlight=front+stud+press
Time consuming but no damage to hub or drum.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

My 63 was 2 piece.

Heat and a BFH should do the trick:headbang:

 

[Cranky]

This is how I did it.
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?t=29145&highlight=front+stud+press
Time consuming but no damage to hub or drum.

My 63 was 2 piece.

Heat and a BFH should do the trick:headbang:

Just be careful with the BFH. Most times I tired that, I ruined the drum. I grind the swagged area these days if I'm trying to save the studs but in most cases, I just cut the studs and replace them with new ones.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

Cranky,either it's too big or yer bangin too hard:evil4:

 

[Cranky]

Weeeeellll, the first time I tried to drive out the studs, I messed up the drum but I didn't do anything to help relieve the swag.....

 

[B-Body Bruce]

Just be careful with the BFH. Most times I tired that, I ruined the drum. I grind the swagged area these days if I'm trying to save the studs but in most cases, I just cut the studs and replace them with new ones.

Great advice from all you guy's. If the drums need to be replaced, I'm gonna try to remove the drums by carefully grinding the swagged areas to try and save the studs. Like you said worst case...just cut the studs and replace them....Thanks again all....

 

[FJ5 Road Runner]

Had to dig deep to find this thread but it stops short of the re-assembly part.

Here's my story,I'm replacing front drums on my survivor 70 RR which are likely the original factory pieces.I'm trying to keep it as original as possible so I'm redoing the factory 11" brakes and will try that for awhile.I have'nt driven anything with front drums for years but I'll make it as good as I can before start thinking of making changes to the car and going with front discs.

I got the old drums separated from the hub by driving out the studs with a ball peen hammer after putting a sacrificial lugnut at the end to save the stud.So far so good.Tapped the studs back into the hub where they popped out and they seemed to seat back just fine.Now I'm trying to pull the hub through the new drum by using several slightly oversize washers topped with a 1/2 washerand a backwards lug nut on each stud but I'm not having much luck.So far the studs and part of the shoulders start to come though then it just seems to stop and the washers start bending.I put the drums out in the sun and the hubs in the freezer for several hours and tried again but still no go.I don't want to really crank up the juice on the impact driver and start bending the new drum or wrecking the stud so I stopped there.My next step is to get some thicker washers and see if that makes a difference but I'm wondering if I'm missing something here...do the shoulders on the studs need to be trimmed or chamfered? or are the studs only supposed to be used once and replaced?
Any insights would be very helpful.

 

[miller]

Those studs are just driven into the hub hole from the back side, studs having serations that make a tight fit, and keep the stud from rotating, once in place. I've always used an aluminum drift, to drive the studs out. If too tight, use a spare nut threaded onto the stud, to give a bigger hitting surface.
Put the new studs into the hub, before mounting the drum. I use a spacer over the stud threads, washer, and nut, to pull the stud into place straight. If not straight, it will bind.
If the drum doesn't simply push into place, the hub shoulder (that centers the drum on the hub) might need to be cleaned.

 

[FJ5 Road Runner]

Those studs are just driven into the hub hole from the back side, studs having serations that make a tight fit, and keep the stud from rotating, once in place. I've always used an aluminum drift, to drive the studs out. If too tight, use a spare nut threaded onto the stud, to give a bigger hitting surface.
Put the new studs into the hub, before mounting the drum. I use a spacer over the stud threads, washer, and nut, to pull the stud into place straight. If not straight, it will bind.
If the drum doesn't simply push into place, the hub shoulder (that centers the drum on the hub) might need to be cleaned.

Thanks for the reply.I have the studs seated into the hub fine,I'm just having trouble getting the the hub assembly (with studs) to pull into the drum.It starts to pull through then seems to stop.I'm just wondering if I'm missing a step somewhere as everything looks clean and should go back together but neither side seems to want to co-operate.
I'm going to get some thicker washers which won't bend,I'm thinking that those might be shifting around under the lugnut and blocking the shoulder of the stud from coming through far enough.

 

[miller]

Don't get too rough using thicker washers. You could pull threads on your studs.

I'm trying to picture what could be the hold up. If you have a rusted parts problem, get the rust off. Especially around the hub shoulder, and the center hole of the drum. It's not a tight fit, and should simply slide into place.

It's not your brake shoes holding you up, is it? Brake shoes need to be backed off, so they don't interfere with the drums going on.
You adjust your brake shoes after the drums/wheels are in place.

If you already know that stuff...

Something is hanging it up. Just need to figure it out.