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Front end move AWB 65 Coronet

shopguy

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I'm still trying to figure out how far to move the front axle on our 65 Coronet project car. This is being done by school kids and myself. I've never done this stuff before, so be fore warned! The rear? no problem acc. to Dale's video! We are looking at a full 15" move.

Up front: We have an A100 axle prepped and ready with disk brakes. If we go 10", we will need to install a cheby style steering box, lengthen the steering shaft, make a drag link and modify the knuckle for the drag link.

If we leave the K frame installed; we can use for the K frame for engine mounting and for the stock steering box! no lengthening the steering shaft. We would still need to make the drag link and modify the knuckle. However, I guess the 10" move is out. Dale / Steve did a 4" move in a Dart (12"R/4"F).
I'm thinking maybe we can do a 15"R/5"F and still retain the Kframe and stock steering box?

PolaraPat: what did you do on the AWB wagon?????????? picts and details
 
Hey shop guy, we're all just sort of winging this as well but you're welcome to show the kids my build blog, there is a link at the bottom of my post. I've been documenting every move with the use of humble tools, a simple shop and a bit of know-how.
Personally, I think you need to go the full 10" up front to match the 15" rear move. We're going 12"/8" due to the existing weight advantage of the wagon. The steering geometry will be all a necessary part of the puzzle.
 
It's still about the same amount of work and engineering ether way.Go the 10in. in front athough I don't think you can go the full 10 with the lenght of the A100 springs.You don't want too teach them to cut corners do you?

Do you mean that axle in it's natural position on the springs will not go the full 10" without frame extensions and maybe clearancing the bumper? I've also heard that the pivot can go to the rear with zero changes in performance.
 
cutting corners? not really. I think the Jayhawker had no front end change with a 15" rear move. Is that cutting corners to the purist? or preference? Factory moved the K frame; is an A100 axle cutting corners? again preference I think.

We have a Mig welder and hammers. No sheet metal equipment, no bandsaw...bare bones. Its hacksaws and the heat wrench to bend metal. Generally, our skill level on average is; Novice. That's an honest assessment. I don't want the project over the heads of the kids involved. Its targeted to be "appropriate" for who I have.

So: if we can keep the K frame AND the steering box in the stock location; THAT will determine the A100 axle position. The drag link can be made to fit.

Its fine to go with a motor plate, that opens the whole underside. Adding the complexity of a new steering box? if I can avoid it, why not?
 
I think sticking with a plan and learning that hard work pays off would be a good leason,thats what my mentors taught me anyway.
 
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