• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Front hub spindle nut Torque?

joe34

Well-Known Member
Local time
6:06 PM
Joined
Jul 22, 2013
Messages
54
Reaction score
24
Location
The Salty City in Utah
In the process of changing my 1968 Dodge Charger from front drum brakes to disc.
Does someone know if the front hub spindle nut torque is the same on both drum and disc. brakes?
The old manual says 90 inch.lbs. which is 7.5 foot lbs.and then back it off 1 castle nut notch.
I do not know if that would be the same for both drum and disc. it does not say.
Also any one know what the torque spec. on the caliper banjo bolt would be?
Thanks for the help.
 
FSM does not specify so I'd say 90 in. lb.s is correct for either.

As you so noted, the banjo bolt is not mentioned, but it does need to be tight enough to deform the (new) copper washers. So give it a good grunt, but don't go all Cro-Magnon on it and ****.
 
FSM does not specify so I'd say 90 in. lb.s is correct for either.

As you so noted, the banjo bolt is not mentioned, but it does need to be tight enough to deform the (new) copper washers. So give it a good grunt, but don't go all Cro-Magnon on it and ****.

....and the crowd cheers the fantastic and accurate means of measurement. I was a two grunt dude, until I got the Grape-nuts rolling, hehe.
 
For the spindle, I always just spin the wheel until there's no drag, but no play in the bearing, then find a castelation on the ring that lines up with the nut and cotter pin hole.

Although if you must choose, a very slight drag is probably better than a loose bearing, as a slight drag will "wear in", where as a loose bearing will prematurely fail.

Been doin it that way since 1984.
 
For the spindle, I always just spin the wheel until there's no drag, but no play in the bearing, then find a castelation on the ring that lines up with the nut and cotter pin hole.

Although if you must choose, a very slight drag is probably better than a loose bearing, as a slight drag will "wear in", where as a loose bearing will prematurely fail.

Been doin it that way since 1984.
Been doing it that way since 69...the year so fine :D
 
Been doing it that way since 69...the year so fine :D

I too been doing it that way for around 35 years but I tighten them to about 10ftlbs to set to preload and then loosen to find that sweet spot. I do this while spinning the wheel.
My 1-ton rear axle the preload is about 70ftlbs
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top