Front Suspension Rebuild/Refresh

[young99]

Hey Guys,

I recently got my 1969 Coronet on the road and running. The next step will be to replace the front suspension parts. I have purchased:
2 upper ball joints
2 lower ball joints
2 inner tie rod ends
2 outer tie rod ends
2 tie rod end adjusting sleeves
4 upper control arm bushings
2 lower control arm bushings
2 strut rod bushings

Mostly all Raybestos, I also picked up like pitman arm, idle arm, etc.

Something I have a question about is the removal of the lower control arms and torsion bars. Does anything special have to be done when I separate the torsion bar from the arm? I did not know if this would cause any body/frame spreading? Honestly, I don't know much about torsion bars was hoping to get your input.

I am planning to remove all that I can so I can clean and repaint everything. If there are any gotchas anyone could share it would be greatly appreciated :glasses1:

Thanks

 

[Beekeeper]

with the front jacked up and supported with jack stands on the frame right under the front of the front floor board. Back the torsion bar adjuster bolts all the way out.
The bars bars don't usually give up too easy so be patient and don't bugger up your
Bars with vise grips when you find they need to be hammered out. Be sure to remove the keeper ring on the back side of the torsion bar socket on the crossmember.

 

[Propwash]

Here's an article about Torsion bars (including install/removal)

http://arengineering.com/tech/torsion-bar-tango/

Here's a link to a free Factory Service Manual for your car, which will also go over the entire removal/install & torque spec's of all suspension components as well as setting ride height.

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=109

 

[Malicious]

I'd recommend the torsion bar tool from Mancini, made popping them a cinch. I'd suggest adding the lower arm pivots, read up on replacing the LCA pivot bushing, its a total B$*&%&. GOing urethane on the LCA pivot makes the install easier in my opinion. Also add 4 cam bolts for the upper arm.

Word of warning ont he lower ball joints too. the MOOG ones come with the boot seperate, you have to install them to the ball shaft yourself. for me at least, this was a massive pain. I had to freeze the ball joints to shrink them, then boil the boots to enlarge them, then use the appropriate size tube/pipe and smash them on with a BFH. I managed to tear the first boot trying, the second went on ok. So now I'm waiting for a set of new boots to come through so I can install that last ball joint. As I said, massive pain in the arse, IMO they should come installed.

 

[Cranky]

Clean off as much road dirt and rust from the adjuster screws as possible and soak them with penetrating oil. Might have to do it several times over the course of a day or more. When they start to move when you apply the socket, squirting them with oil isn't a bad idea. Last few I've done I had to unscrew it some then go back up....more oil and try again....and again until they backed off. An impact gun is your friend. One thing you do not want to do is break them so if they don't come out without using a ton of torque, keep soaking them. I even give them a few whacks with a hammer and a center punch. Don't bugger them so a socket doesn't go on.