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Fuel sending unit for 1970 B body

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I have a question on a fuel sending unit! I have installed a new fuel gauge , Fuel sending unit and a new circuit board. What's happening is in order for my gauge to come up to Empty is I have to raise the float a little over half way up. Now I already bent the float so it is on the bottom of the tank but for some reason it will not register right. I have the tank and the sending unit out and I can move the float up and down . Is there any to adjust this? I had10 gallons of gas in the tank when it was in the car and it just came up to Empty it should have read half a tank and it didn't. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks
 
It seems that every reproduction sending unit out there is an innacurate piece of crap. Dixie restoration parts started a 'group buy" of 3/8" senders to be built by a company that supplied parts to Chrysler, ensuring OEM quality. $80. I ordered one for my Charger.
 
It seems that every reproduction sending unit out there is an innacurate piece of crap. Dixie restoration parts started a 'group buy" of 3/8" senders to be built by a company that supplied parts to Chrysler, ensuring OEM quality. $80. I ordered one for my Charger.

Let us know how it works.I bought one from Dixie a year ago and was worse than the chineseum ones.
 
What is a Sumit?
 
I have bought at least 4 from Ebay...the seller was Tamraz I think...didn't have to do anything to them..they worked perfect.
AL
 
Calibrate the new sender

The problem is that these aftermarket senders are designed to read ZERO on the lower stop and as you have found out that will on your gauge will be well below "E".

I have replaced several of these units and each time I had to "calibrate" them.

My first piece of advice is be sure you have the ring tool.

second, empty the tank.

third, with someone in the car; go underneath with a sharpie and connect the unit along with a jumper to ground.

fourth, move the sender float arm up until the needle on the dash comes up to the "E" mark. (or just below to give yourself or the missus a bit of wiggle room should the next gas station still be a ways off when you are on "E")

fifth, put a mark on the unit where the arm is aligned near the pivot point.

sixth, on your bench, disassemble the cover over the resistance wire. be careful not to lose the "BAJEEZUZ" spring.

seventh gently persuede the pressed on arm that contacts the resistance wire so that on the lower stop for the float arm it will be lined up with your mark. (some of the resistance arms I have seen are more of a solid brass looking piece and others are a piece of flat brass that it bent on the cheaper units. (see alternate method below.)

eighth, reassemble the unit just enough that you can retest from under the car.

Alternately I have just used two needle nosed vice grip pliers to put a bend on the float arm very close to the pivot point to make the arm line up to my mark on a "EL-CHEAPO" unit that has a very thin resistance arm that was not going to be moved without breaking.

I hope this helps.
 
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