Full Quarter Replacement, need advice...

[smatt]

What is the best way to do full quarter replacement on a unibody?

I have a '68 Coronet. I bought full quarters and trunk extentions from AMD.
I have stripped the car down, and currently I am straightening the doors and fenders. First plan was to straighten the doors, and put them back on and align them before cutting off the old quarters, then be able to use as alignment guides for the new quarters. (I might also have to replace the drivers pillar)

Was watching a video today, they were working on a chevelle, but they had both quarters cut off, along with the trunk I believe, and sent the shell out to be blasted... that got me thinking maybe I should cut the quarters off, then I could blast behind them, and seal it before installing the new quarters.
One concern is it being a unibody, would I need to worry about the body flexing with both quarters cut off at the same time? Do I need to weld in braces?

Any tips/advice for replacing the full quarters is appreciated,
Thanks

 

[welder47]

I did mine one at a time also I have frame connectors in my car. If you plan on installing connectors do that first, that will help. There isnt a whole lot to blast once the panel is off, just do one and roll it outside, blast, undercoat and reinstall the panel. Taking the doors off will help reduce the weight on the center of the car. Take measurement off the floor to the frame first and you should be ok. By the way dont be afraid to cut the bulk of the panel out first and then work on the welds, its alot easier then, the panel is scrap anyway. Marking out how the new panels fit first is important though, should be able to hold it over the old one and get a decent starting mark.

 

[YY1]

Too bad about the door striker pillar.

I believe Mopar Muscle did an article that is still available online where the use a (to my knowledge) somewhat non-standard approach be overlaying the new quarter on the old and cutting both with a wheel that is the same size as a MIG bead, then tacking every 18 inches in "circles" until it's filled.

Everyone I've showed that article to says "that's wrong"..."you need to use a tool that creases the panel and allows you to overlap one panel on the other".

I think the article is better because it doesn't stress the metal and leaves no seam at all if the welds are ground properly. It also leaves as as many of the structual parts of the old quarter in plase as possible, if they are good.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/body/mopp_0506_panel_rust_removal/index.html

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/body/mopp_0507_panel_rust_removal_2/index.html

 

[alleyoopmgv]

You beat me to it YY1, I was going to post the same links.

Matt you don't have to follow these to a T, but they are good guides to go by.

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/body/mopp_0506_panel_rust_removal/index.html

Same thing YY1 posted.

 

[smatt]

Thanks for the replys, I'll go read those articles.
I should post the pics of the quarter...
The car was previously hit and repaired on the driver side. It was repaired with a junk yard panel, welded across bottom of the sail panel similar to the pics you posted. unfortunately they didn't do a great job, it is warped, slightly higher than the other side, and doesn't have the right slope off the sail onto the quarter. anyway, decided i wasn't going to be happy trying to fix what they did so i worked some OT and bought new full quarters.
There is mud in the door pillar, so I also picked up a used clean pillar.


Yeah after reading the other post about the RR AMD quarter replacement I was planning on slowly trimming them off little at a time to make sure I don't end up with the same problems.

 

[66_B_Body4ever]

As far as being concerned about body flexing goes, very little if any will occur on the weakest structure if the car is stripped, as in drivetrain, diff etc is removed. The car was designed to be relaxed and have everything fit properly with the weight on the wheels. If you support the vehicle through its restoration by the same means you'll be ok. I have my 66 Belvy gutted and supported right now at the four torque box areas. I made sure that the left and right sides were perfectly level with each other in case anything shifted.
It is always a good idea to mock up the whole body with fenders and doors etc before welding anything in if you are uncertain. A couple hours spent here can save you tons of hours later...

 

[moparpoor]

As long as the inner strcture is intact such as the inner qrt/wheel house you should be fine.If you plan on putting it on a rottisery then reinf.I assume you have a full qrt,you will want to replace it at the factory seams.Simply remove factory spot welds and remove,install the same.