Fuse box

[bobby albertson]

Ok so as I poke around my car I am having an issue with a fuse popping. It’s a 20a fuse and appears to control the electric choke and I know also has the reverse light wired to it. It seems to pop a lot . I know it’s gonna does cause my reverse light doesn't come on and it seems to run a bit higher and a bit rougher. Couple hundred rpm.
There is a black wire jumped off it. I will attempt to locate where it goes this weekend. I have pulled it off and not really noticed anything yet, but haven’t really tried yet. It could be the choke or just the sub woofer that was put in. It’s my Saturday project.
But the questions I have I believe I know the answers but better to ask.
Can I just use a 25a fuse? Or should I just use another of the other 20a to jump? It’s the second from the left

 

[threewood]

Don't go higher. That fuse is there to protect the wire. Find the short to ground (pinched or exposed wire) and fix it correctly.

 

[68Moparmaniac]

Dude, listen to threewood, get you a schematic for your car and do it right. Electrical car fires suck balls...you don't want to burn it to the ground

 

[Nacho-RT74]

electric choke ? linked with ACC source ?. Back up lamps are feeded from ACC circuit... electric choke must be with Ign1 circuit! ( blue wire running to ballast, regulator and alt field if dual field alt ) which is not fused

the "Reverse light fuse" is shared with more accesories into the car.

 

[bobby albertson]

Yea I know fires suck. I have a feeling he used it for the subwoofer. But I’ll poke around Saturday. As far as a diagram. It has a new harness and was all re done

 

[Nacho-RT74]

change the choke to the ign1 circuit and you'll be done

 

[bobby albertson]

change the choke to the ign1 circuit and you'll be done

Can read them . That’s the first from right?

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

change the choke to the ign1 circuit and you'll be done

You are not suggesting that a load connection with a possible 20+ amp intermittent short be moved from a fuse protected power source to the unprotected ign1 circuit without first locating and repairing the source of the short, are you?

OP, what year model vehicle are you working with, don’t recognize the fuse box mounting pictured. Appears to a pre ’73, assuming it’s a b-body, any electric choke would be aftermarket, with a choke heater current draw around 600 ma max. That load would not cause a 20-amp fuse to blow intermittingly.

Lose the fuse taps altogether, there are better ways to connect aftermarket loads. Especially the fuse showing a tap at both ends, one of them is unprotected.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I don't think there is a short, but an overload on the circuit. A short will blow the fuse as soon you power it. Moving the choke to the correct source would be the first step. Then make a balance for the extra accesories added on that circuit.

In any case, the source for the choke should be straight from engine bay and if that line to the choke is shorted between fuse and choke ( which I think is not ), will be already removed from the problem with a new line

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Can read them . That’s the first from right?

ign1 is unfused circuit... is the wiring ( blue ) what feeds regulator, ballast... ECU if present, alt field if dual field.

 

[bobby albertson]

ign1 is unfused circuit... is the wiring ( blue ) what feeds regulator, ballast... ECU if present, alt field if dual field.

On the fuse block the only one w/out fuse doesent have a top clip, it’s open and not hooked up. In the picture would it be able to be moved over to the right to either one of the other fuses.
And I checked it’s not for the subwoofer and w/car running don’t see anything obvious but will trace it Saturday.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

On the fuse block the only one w/out fuse doesent have a top clip, it’s open and not hooked up. In the picture would it be able to be moved over to the right to either one of the other fuses.
And I checked it’s not for the subwoofer and w/car running don’t see anything obvious but will trace it Saturday.

Choke doesn't need to get sourced from there, just splice it into engine bay itself, straight to engine harness. Forgett about the fuse box on this wire.... remove it and splice it into the ballast or regulator blue wire.

 

[bobby albertson]

Ok so I traced the black wire. The previous owner used it as a2nd power input
To the subwoofer so it could have power to the out put. The short was caused because the cable for the output control was pinched under the seat track . Caused it to tear . Soooo the wire and output control are
No longer there. And no more pooping the fuse!

 

[Larry Chilese]

anything that burns a 20 amp fuse is a dead short to ground.
If you think you have an excessive current draw with the car off-remove + battery terminal and hold it off the post-if it arc's like lightning there a problem.

 

[MoparDanMan]

Ok so as I poke around my car I am having an issue with a fuse popping. It’s a 20a fuse and appears to control the electric choke and I know also has the reverse light wired to it. It seems to pop a lot . I know it’s gonna does cause my reverse light doesn't come on and it seems to run a bit higher and a bit rougher. Couple hundred rpm.
There is a black wire jumped off it. I will attempt to locate where it goes this weekend. I have pulled it off and not really noticed anything yet, but haven’t really tried yet. It could be the choke or just the sub woofer that was put in. It’s my Saturday project.
But the questions I have I believe I know the answers but better to ask.
Can I just use a 25a fuse? Or should I just use another of the other 20a to jump? It’s the second from the left

You need to fix the issue rather than finding a work a round.

 

[MoparDanMan]

Ok so I traced the black wire. The previous owner used it as a2nd power input
To the subwoofer so it could have power to the out put. The short was caused because the cable for the output control was pinched under the seat track . Caused it to tear . Soooo the wire and output control are
No longer there. And no more pooping the fuse!

Glad you found the answer.