Good Universal Joint?

[68rt]

Running a 68 R/t with a 440. Anybody have any imput on a good set of universal joints?? From what I understand, the ones with the grease fittings may not be as strong as the non-greaseable units???? Any thoughts on the various brands? Thanks

 

[Meep-Meep]

Most of the drive shaft shops will only use Spicer so that's what I go with.

I'm pretty sure all the U joints are hollow inside (the ones i seen anyway) so in that case the grease fitting has little to do with strength.

 

[Supershafts]

What kind of hp are you making and what is the series joint you are using in your car. . .

Then i'll give you a part # to get.

As for various brands, pretty much you have Spicer and the very very few U.S. specialty catering to the off-road and EVERYTHING else is china copies and boxed china crap. . . .

 

[Cranky]

Might check with CTM....they cater to the off roaders but they might still have what you are looking for. I like U-joints that have grease zerks in the cap and it looks like they have em.

 

[Supershafts]

CTM only sells front axle joints, and the prices are insane and who other than off-roaders want the axles to be the weak link and be the cheaper alternative at that point... which is also insane.

 

[65 Plymouth Satellite 426]

Only One Choice: Dana-Spicer!

 

[68rt]

Thanks for all the imput, to answere Supershafts question, the motor was 450 hp on the dyno. Thanks

 

[Supershafts]

No i also asked , " What series joint are you using NOW so i can tell you what to get"

But at 450 you do not need to run out and order 1350 stuff or anything like that.

 

[theman440]

My car weighs 3650 lbs, runs mid to high 10 second guarters. Car launches pretty hard (1.45 - 1.51 60fts) I've been using the 7290 Chrysler U-Joints for years and have NEVER had a failure. Spicer and Neapco are pretty high quality.

 

[Supershafts]

Neapco is no longer high quality, they have since used all china crap and package it in there boxes. . .

 

[68GTX4SPEED]

Just read this in Moparmusclemagazine

Solid vs. Greasable U-joint

Mopp 1206 005 Driveshaft Properly Shafted
Greasable or lubed style U-joints have several disadvantages. Because of their lube system, they are not as strong. The internal lube channel results in a smaller cross sectional area of material (less steel to resist the applied torque). They are naturally out of balance by using the zurk fitting on the body, and, with the added machining for the lubrication cross holes, you inherently induce a small amount of imbalance. They are warm forged, which is a less desirable process for strength. They require regular maintenance, but can last almost forever. Since they are lubed, they can leak grease at high speed. Solid-body U-joints have several advantages. Because of their solid design, they are inherently stronger because they make use of the greatest cross-sectional area possible. They are naturally balanced due to the symmetry of the part. They are cold forged, which is a more desirable manufacturing process for strength. They have a nylon sealing system and are lubed for life by the manufacturer. They might not last "forever," but the expected life is 100,000-plus miles (Drawing B).

Read more: http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...06_driveshaft_tech/viewall.html#ixzz1tMyAq4lE

 

[BuckNeccid]

If you're installing greaseable fittings, make sure you put the zerk in a position that will compress against the joint instead of pulling the fitting as the shaft rotates. If you compress against it in the rotation, it's less likely to break than if you pull, which could start micro cracks until it finally gives way when you do that 5500 rpm clutch drop.

(Old school street racing discussions sitting on the side of the road with a couple of beers in hand)