Grounding motor to frame

[Roadrage]

Need some help or clarification please.
Trying to get my 66 charger on the road, have been starting the car in the garage for friends and family and everything was going great. Just trying to keep motivated to finish the car and started driving it around the block, short runs and everything seems fine. Then got the bright idea to drive it to the gas station. Ran good 3 miles only to the station. Fill her up with high test, everyone at the gas station freaking out that they had never seen one of these cars before, 10 minutes go by and try to start the car and battery sounds like it is dead. DUMMY.... Now everyone scatters like the car has the plague, that sucks... Not so dumb after all, had my son come up and jump the car, took a long time but got it running.
Now I remembered that I never hooked a ground up from the motor to the frame....
Here is what I have.... Not an original car first off.
Red top optima battery in the trunk, one awg wire from there to the front. Ground on a welded post in the trunk to the frame. Frame has welded square 2x3 from the subframe connectors to the body, all tied in. That is where the cage is welded to the frame, everything is solid.
Other posts say that the right side of the head needs to be grounded to the body, are they suggesting back header bolt to the frame, or body. Mine should be all tied in correct?
Just need clarification on specific locations I should be grounding the car to......thanks in advance.

 

[moparsteve636]

The factory ground strap was bolted to the intake bolt and to the fire wall on the pass. side!

 

[WP29440SE]

you can never have too many grounds IMO. from the negative side of the battery , I have one to the body , to the engine block and from the back of the passenger side head to the firewall. the entire car body should a rolling ground. all your electrical components depend on it.

 

[Dennis H]

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?97623-Ground-Strap&highlight=ground

 

[Seventy]

When I am not restoring a car to 100% original I ground the **** out of it, I have a roll of 1.25" 4 ga tinned copper braided ground strapping, that I make my own grounds with, I bought the roll at auction years ago... looks like this, you can out any ends you want on it http://www.ebay.com/itm/7-inch-4-ga...eel-/331641220820?hash=item4d375b6ed4&vxp=mtr

I go from the battery to the frame or body near the battery, then from there to the engine with another strap. then on the opposite side of the engine to that side of the cars frame. I also have some thinner stuff that I run with to the firewall and on the other side of that bolt I run one to the dash board frame from there to the column with another one, needless to say I never have ground issues, and only started doing this after having many many ground issues, lol, I learned the hardway, run a ton of good grounds while the car is apart, its much easier. I even ran copper tinned 8 gauge wire back to the in tank fuel pump on my 39 fi ford, it had a plastic tank and I didnt want any issues with that $600 walbro pump system, learned that after cooking an aeroquip pump with a bad ground...

good luck, moral of the story is ground ground ground and then 1 more for good measure..

 

[440roadrunner]

Running more and more modern electronics, solid state this or that, makes things more difficult. You get into what is called "ground loops" and EMI (electronic noise) MSD EG can generate a LOT of disruption into sensitive low current sensor circuits, and can even interfere 'with itself' that is, the plug wires can create interference in the pickup circuit itself.

 

[SwedCharger67]

Running more and more modern electronics, solid state this or that, makes things more difficult. You get into what is called "ground loops" and EMI (electronic noise) MSD EG can generate a LOT of disruption into sensitive low current sensor circuits, and can even interfere 'with itself' that is, the plug wires can create interference in the pickup circuit itself.

Yes, I agree. It's very important to have only one common ground point, to avoid the unwanted ground loops, and avoid different voltage levels.
Additional ground wires that can be added are grounding the dash frame and the tail light assembly, all grounded in the very same point. :icon_thumright:

 

[mbat]

Just my $.02 we are only dealing with 12v so there isn't a whole lot of voltage to push starter motor current draws through the body. Starter motors require a large initial draw to get moving especially if they aren't using a remote relay/solenoid. I say ground to the engine and see if your troubles stop. When low voltage like 12v is used, even the temperature change of the engine block adds resistance. This wouldn't show up for low draws like bulbs but will for the starting.

 

[440roadrunner]

Starter motors require a large initial draw to get moving especially if they aren't using a remote relay/solenoid. I say ground to the engine and see if your troubles stop. .

I pretty much agree "except."

Large cables and very good connections............"back when" (seventies) at some point I had a trunk mount battery in my 70 V code. So 10.xx compression 440, old style "wound" starter, and trunk battery. Battery was grounded with large cable to body in the trunk, and a big engine -to-frame jumper up front. NO problems ever cranking the engine.

On a side note "a solenoid" to "get things moving" is actually irrelevant.