Headlights

[70redbee]

I have a 1970 Super Bee and the other night while driving with the headlights on high beam, the lights all went out and then back on. It did this 2 or 3 times, put on just low beams and drove it home with no other problems. Anyone have an idea of what to look for? Any help is appreciated.

 

[Someotherguy]

Sounds like a bad foot switch to me....

 

[bigblock]

The HL switch has a bi - metalic circuit breaker built in.When high resistance or a short occurs this CB opens and kills the lights. When it cools the lights come back on. I bet you have halogens or maybe something better than sealed beam headlights. They draw more amps and open the CB. You should wire up a relay to handle the high beams and let the floor switch run the relay.

 

[MikeyT]

^ Plus one, relay for sure...

Mikey

 

[70redbee]

No halogens or special bulbs just regular sealed beams. I thought maybe the foot switch so I'll give that a try. I just happen to have a new switch.

 

[superbeedave]

It could also be just your connection at the dimmer switch. We do tend to put our left foot at that particular area.

 

[Propwash]

I agree..Relay is a great idea. Definitely a better way of feeding those lights than running all the way from the headlight switch, then foot switch then all the way out to the headlights. Hope the foot switch cures it for ya. Best of luck

 

[A383Wing]

1) yer headlight switch is failing...find a new one and do the relay upgrade.

2) Halogens actually draw less power than the older sealed beams

3) Foot dimmer switch is not yer problem, but it won't hurt to replace it anyway

Bryan

 

[scotts74birds]

383 has a point. My 95 Ram started doing that once I moved to the country, and was driving with hi-beams for extended periods. My solution was to install a relay to use the light switch to activate a relay for the hi-beams. And they were fed off the underhood harness, rather than going through the switch, which actually made them brighter due to the elimination of the voltage-drop of them running through the switch.

 

[themechanic]

I would like to add the relay, too. Any links for "How To" would be appreciated.

 

[kiwigtx]

Propwash did this outstanding write-up and How-To article which I found very useful....and a diagram at the bottom...makes it all really easy.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?46766-Headlight-Wiring-Question

 

[themechanic]

Propwash did this outstanding write-up and How-To article which I found very useful....and a diagram at the bottom...makes it all really easy.

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?46766-Headlight-Wiring-Question

I don't want the HID lights; too many additional parts.

 

[kiwigtx]

I don't want the HID lights; too many additional parts.

You don't need to use HID headlights....use the same theory for the relays, and use regular headlamps/Halogens or whatever....the important thing here is that the relays are supplying power direct from the battery thus reducing the load on your ancient light switch.

 

[A383Wing]

and yer still gonna need a new switch

 

[Propwash]

Thanks Kiwi. Appreciate it.

Like Kiwi mentioned, that diagram on that thread can be used to wire up a relay driven system, without using HID's/Ballast's. I modified the schematic for just a relay driven system below. There are some changes you could make. Like for instance, running an inline fuse or fusible link instead of a circuit breaker, or running 4 pin relays and splicing off the single post to the each separate light. Up to you. Another change I made to the schematic is downsized the Circuit breaker and Relays from 40 to 30, and cut out one circuit breaker (unless you want redundant circuits). 30 Amps will be more than plenty for a Halogen/incandescent system. When the HID's are initiated, the initial start up of the ballast's has a higher draw than conventional (thus 40 AMP circuit breaker). After 3-5 seconds the ballasts are warmed up. At that point and forward, the HID's draw much less amps than a Halogen/incandescent system.

Either way, a relay system is more efficient, reliable and safe than the old wiring/engineering built into the factory harness. Like mentioned, your lights will be brighter and the electrical system will be less taxed. Those relays are about $5 bucks at most parts stores...Same for the circuit breaker. Pretty cheap addition for a lot of gain.

 

[Photon440]

Thanks Propwash. Diagram saved to my 'roadrunner' folder....

 

[Propwash]

 

[Mr.SpeedFreak]

x2. Diagram saved in addition to your HID upgrade thread already being in my bookmarks. Will, you've got some serious wizardry going on upstairs lol
:icon_thumleft:

 

[themechanic]

Has anyone tried a ready-made conversion harness like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/310441829077?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

[Propwash]

x2. Diagram saved in addition to your HID upgrade thread already being in my bookmarks. Will, you've got some serious wizardry going on upstairs lol

Wizardry or Looney Tunes.............I don't know man..lol