• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

heads for a 440

necordoba

Member
Local time
3:31 PM
Joined
Mar 29, 2009
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
Location
hastings ne
I have a mid 70's 440 that is going to get rebuilt. I would like to do some performance upgrades to it, and was wondering what are some of the more desirable factory heads that I can use.
 
FACTORY heads? Well a 906, 346, and a 452 are all about the same performance wise. Also the "big valve" 915s (which only have the same size as the other heads mentioned) aren't enough better to warrant the extra expense as far as I'm concerned.

A Stage IV would be good IF you can find any. If you want to turn one loose you could always go with Max Wedge heads, but they're NOT cheap and you'd have to have an intake to match.

I'm sure others will chime in, and will ask what you plan on doing with this motor. And I'm sure some will recommend Edelbrocks or Indys or maybe even 440 Source.
 
My first choice are 915's with a flat top piston. Second choice 906's with a quench dome piston. Whatever you do make sure you have a nice quench area. About .050" piston top to the head should be good. Both heads should be pocket ported and hard exhaust seats installed. I have had good experience running 915's on a 383 with .040" clearance. I'm putting 2.14"/1.81" in a set of 915's now for a mild 440 I'm building.

I hear people have good results with later model unleaded heads (346, 452) but the port floor isn't as good as the older heads.
 
The 452 has out performed all but the stage heads in every shoot out I've read sense 78.
But not knowing what you want the engine to do, means no one can give an intelligence reply to you.
 
Well I had the motor cleaned and found out that it needs to have a sleeve put in at least one cylinder and the heads that were with it are cracked. So to me the block is useless.
 
Sleeving one hole isn't a big deal as long as you're not planning on making a 5-600hp monster out of it. Heads are easy to come by for the most part if you just want iron heads.

I've said this before but will say it again. The 346/452 heads have a flatter intake runner than a 906. BUT....they have more short side radius on the exhaust than the 906's. So what you lose on the intake side you pick up on the exhaust.

Also, the 346's do NOT have hard seats. 452's have induction hardened seats and will probably be lost if the seats need much cutting during a valve job.
 
Just my thinking - but the BB MoPar heads have such short exhaust runners I doubt the exhaust flow difference between the 452 and 906 makes enough of a noticeable difference when the headers/manifolds are hooked up with mufflers, etc. There have been serious books written containing more math than I'll ever know dedicated to exhaust and intake tuning and most of it has to do with primary pipe length and how to avoid the pressure wave that wants to go back into the cylinder when the valve is open - within a very narrow RPM range.

My point is this. Anyone can make 400 - 450 HP with a BB MoPar using any of the aforementioned cast iron heads, a 2000-6000 RPM cam, 9-10:1 CR, good single plane intake such as Torker or Holley, 700-750 CFM carb and headers. The best part is the bottom ends are strong and the valve train is stable so reliability is never an issue. Yep, no special blocks, screw in studs or girdles. Just slap it together and haul A$$!! Who said hi-perf MoPars are more expensive to build?? Sounds like bow tie propaganda to me.

I like 915 heads because of the closed chamber and the "better than the 516" intake port, plus I keep finding them for cheap. Making the combustion chamber right for the fuel used is one of the keys to making good power while resisting detonation, and that is one thing you WILL notice.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top