Heat causing rt front brake to drag, re-route?

[rp23g7]

Hey guys, 69 Bee with a 440, headers, drums in front. I think the heat from my right side header is causing the rt front wheel cylinder to cause the brake to drag. When I got the car its rt front brakes were half gone, and the drum had a rivit ring around it, the left side was ok.

Going on a cruise around the neighbor hood isn't bad, but when you are in stop and go traffic ( cruise to colby type closed street cruise) or a run on the freeway on a hot day, the wheel kinda has a pull to it or the pedal is rock hard with no trouble stopping but no travel at all.

Wondering the best route to run a replacement line, all the way around across the rad support, or just higher across the firewall and along the inner fender and down, any one else have this issue?

 

[Cranky]

I've never experienced anything like that. What else have you done in trying to fix the problem? It would be easier to insulate the line instead of moving it but I doubt that's your problem....

 

[moparmarkk]

hi,when flex lines get old,they swell and hold fluid-psi-how old are the lines?do not think its heat,how close are the headers to the lines?mark

 

[rp23g7]

hi,when flex lines get old,they swell and hold fluid-psi-how old are the lines?do not think its heat,how close are the headers to the lines?mark

HMM, dont know how old the flex hoses are, they dont look too bad though. I could replace them though.

The headers are not close, the brake line is routed in its stock location, the car has Headman Headers, with the No 8 tube coming out and curving straight down to the collector.

The right wheel cylinder was sticking so bad last summer when i hit the brakes on the freeway at 70, it made a immediate right turn and blew the bushings in the front end.

I rebuilt my front end and replaced both front wheel cylinders, and it seemed to be ok for a while, but noticed it again on the Colby Street Cruise last weekend.

 

[Meep-Meep]

I'll agree about it not being a heat from a header issue - unless the tube is right on the tube. I have run various headers on B bodies and never had anything brake related go wrong as a result. The hoses are one possibility because they can act like a check valve and another might be the master cylinder push rod length. If the compensating port isn't open when you are off the brake then as the fluid gets hot it can't return to the master cylinder. Try putting a standard washer (about .062" thick) on the mounting studs between the master and firewall / booster to space it out then see if the problem repeats.

 

[rp23g7]

I will see if i can get the hoses replaced in the next week first to see how t acts, thanks guys

 

[Cranky]

Rock hard pedal...didn't click at first but it's probably the flexible line swelling in the ID. If heat was the problem, it would make the fluid boil and that makes for a spongy pedal in most cases. If you don't know how old the lines are, change them out (both sides) and then you will know the condition. Try to find some that are NOT made in China....not just because they are made there but the quality is usually not very good. There has been some concerns with rubber products from that damn commie country.

 

[rp23g7]

Replaced both brake hoses, bled and drove it, it feels totally different now, i think it was a issue with the internals of the old hoses. Unfortunatly i had to use the NAPA Balkamp brand, made in China, ewwwww, we shall see how it goes.

 

[Cranky]

Cool that you found the problem....bummer that you couldn't find something not made in Commie China