Help !!! brake gurus tapered axels

[64polaradroptop]

Hi fellas,as some of you know im working on my latest project,,,a 1963 plymouth fury stationwagon. I got the car running after 20+ years,now im trying to get it to stop..I installed all new brake hard lines,new soft lines ,new master,all new brake hardware,cylinders,and shoes and drums, eveything went on without a problem...now im left to do the dreaded rear tapered axel drum removel,the rear drivers side I was able to losen the star wheel with no problem now the tire spins freely.But the rear passanger is a different story,with a flashlite i can see the star wheel is badly rusted on the threads :angryfire: I have sprayed PB blaster on it for 2 days and put a tiny wired brush throw the back plate to take the rust scale off the threads,I proceded to try to turn the star wheel but its not moving,im starting to sheer the nubs off the star wheel:angryfire:the drum is frozen it dont move.any ideas???besides torching it off..I dont want to break my buddys snap on hub puller,,, thanks in adance John

 

[safetymike77]

I would grind the rivets holding the drum onto the hub off. Be careful with them, as if you intend to reuse the drum, you will need the holes they vacated. Once you have the rivets off, you should be able to get the drum off the center hub and access the brakes. once all that happens, you can either work on the center hub with a dogbone style puller, or if you don't need to do any rear end seals, you can then work on the brakes. Drill the former rivet holes to the proper size for the lugs (this part is important to do well), and you now have a removable drum. You will notice the original lug holes are way too big for the lugs. Another option that might work once you get the brakes to move, is to undo the center nut. Put the cotter pin back in, but leave it a couple threads out. Do some Nascar style swerves, and once you hear what sounds like a shotgun, the drum will be loose, and it will come right off.

 

[khryslerkid]

There are no rivets to grind. They are pressed in studs that have to be drilled from inside the drum.

Consider doing this. Read this link, it's the best way to convert to regular drums from the tapered.

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Mopar_tapered_axle_rear_brake_conversion

So if you decide to do the conversion, you could cut the center out of the drum before you pull the hub. Then you would have access to the brake parts in order to release the shoes.

If you still want to loosen the shoes to save the drum, I would try drilling the heads off of the retainer pins that go thru the backing plate. Make sure your e-brake cable is fully released too. Then you could pull the drum far enough, maybe a half inch or more, to let you access the adjuster from underneath.

Good luck!

 

[Dodge 330]

Or, you can just substitute a later B body 8 3/4 like one from a 70 Charger or Satellite and be done with the problem.

My housing was $50 and the 11 1/2 drums were free from a friend's parts car.

 

[nm9stheham]

Grind off/drill the shoe retaining pins from the back side as said above. Also remove the 2 small bolts holding in the wheel cylinder and remove/cut the brake line or loosen the bleeder screw. You need to insure the e-brake cable is loose inside; this is often the issue. Tap the drum over the shoe area with a rubber or wooden mallet to try to break the shoe free from the drums.

BTW, as a hint for the future, put some brake lube or anti-seize on the star wheel threads and rotating end when re-assembling. Cool car! I grew up riding in one of those owned by my grandfather!

 

[ply64post]

pullee

Hi fellas,as some of you know im working on my latest project,,,a 1963 plymouth fury stationwagon. I got the car running after 20+ years,now im trying to get it to stop..I installed all new brake hard lines,new soft lines ,new master,all new brake hardware,cylinders,and shoes and drums, eveything went on without a problem...now im left to do the dreaded rear tapered axel drum removel,the rear drivers side I was able to losen the star wheel with no problem now the tire spins freely.But the rear passanger is a different story,with a flashlite i can see the star wheel is badly rusted on the threads :angryfire: I have sprayed PB blaster on it for 2 days and put a tiny wired brush throw the back plate to take the rust scale off the threads,I proceded to try to turn the star wheel but its not moving,im starting to sheer the nubs off the star wheel:angryfire:the drum is frozen it dont move.any ideas???besides torching it off..I dont want to break my buddys snap on hub puller,,, thanks in adance JohnView attachment 208910

John

This puller will pull it. Never had one that I couldn't get off.

 

[nitrojunkie]

I had the same problem getting the drums off my 64 sport fury. They just wouldn't move at all, no play whatsoever. I figured if I could get just a few thousands play in them they would come off. So I put the lug nuts back on the studs flush with the ends of the studs and smacked them with a 3lb. hammer. They still only moved a 32nd to maybe a 16th but it was enough to get a little free play in the drums and got them right off. I looked real close at the lug studs and the splines that come all the way through the flange are bigger than the hole, that's why I couldn't move them very much but it was enough to break them loose from the drums and give me enough play to get them right off.