**HELP ***I need help finding this relay for my 76 Cordoba

[real0803]

My battery wasn't charging and I couldn't figure out why for the longest . Behold I bypassed this relay with a jumper and my battery started to charge again . So this is a blower motor switch relay . I found a couple of eBay and even AutoZone but the pin outs do not match this . If anyone knows the part number to this relay or knows where I can get this exact one I would appreciate it . I was just thinking about just getting a 12v 80amp relay and wiring it up but I want to try to keep it all original as possible without cutting any wires .

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[real0803]

Here is the relay and the other photo I. The blue is the pin configuration

 

[real0803]

Here is the relay and the other photo is the pin configuration

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I know (per diagrams, not by a personal experience) later models got a relay which disconects the regulator input from run circuit while cranking, then once engine starts up, reconnect the regulator input. This should save power peaks produced by the low voltage into the electrical network result while cranking. Maybe is that relay?

I guess you still have it. What’s the PN on it?

 

[real0803]

I know (per diagrams, not by a personal experience) later models got a relay which disconects the regulator input from run circuit while cranking, then once engine starts up, reconnect the regulator input. This should save power peaks produced by the low voltage into the electrical network result while cranking. Maybe is that relay?

I guess you still have it. What’s the PN on it?

That sounds exactly what is is and you may be right but I can't to seem to find this relay anywhere . Here is the actual picture of the delay that I took out. I went to AutoZone and O Reilly's and I had no luck . If anyone knows how I should go about replacing this relay.

 

[real0803]

That sounds exactly what is is and you may be right but I can't to seem to find this relay anywhere . Here is the actual picture of the delay that I took out. I went to AutoZone and O Reilly's and I had no luck . If anyone knows how I should go about replacing this relay.

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I thought this might be the right relay but the configuration does not match

 

[WileE]

Did you try Rock Auto ?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Normally any kind of relay can be matched to make it work like the original… sure is better try to get an original one to keep the factory plug.

Even the original one could be fixed. Sometimes is not more than rust on points inside. My Charger still has the FACTORY starter relay. Sometime in the past failed. I opened, cleaned contacts/points and made to bring it back to life again.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

I thought this might be the right relay but the configuration does not match

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That’s the “Field Relay” first used in the mid ’75 fleet charging system. By-passes the voltage drop issues on the ign1 regulator feed that can cause higher charging voltages at the battery. Effectively connects the regulator reference input directly to the starter relay battery post, by-passing the earlier ign1 circuit path through the ignition switch and related connections for a more accurate reference voltage.

Agree, I don’t see why you couldn’t use the pictured relay or any standard Bosch style automotive relay. Will need to reconfigure/replace the primary connections for this relay (#4 & 5), looks like the secondary connector (#1 & 3) would fit directly on it as is.
Remove the two individual terminals from the primary connector, put some heat shrink tubing around them and connect to the primary terminals on the replacement relay. For the pictured relay, terminals 4 & 5.
For a Bosch style relay #85 & 86 are the primary and #30 & 87 would be the secondary side.

 

[real0803]

That’s the “Field Relay” first used in the mid ’75 fleet charging system. By-passes the voltage drop issues on the ign1 regulator feed that can cause higher charging voltages at the battery. Effectively connects the regulator reference input directly to the starter relay battery post, by-passing the earlier ign1 circuit path through the ignition switch and related connections for a more accurate reference voltage.

Agree, I don’t see why you couldn’t use the pictured relay or any standard Bosch style automotive relay. Will need to reconfigure/replace the primary connections for this relay (#4 & 5), looks like the secondary connector (#1 & 3) would fit directly on it as is.
Remove the two individual terminals from the primary connector, put some heat shrink tubing around them and connect to the primary terminals on the replacement relay. For the pictured relay, terminals 4 & 5.
For a Bosch style relay #85 & 86 are the primary and #30 & 87 would be the secondary side.

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Thanks for you're help 720RoadrunnerGTX. I believe that did the trick. My battery was very low so I had to charge it overnight and I will be testing it out later on today to check the voltage charge . I ended up returning the $30 relay from AutoZone and installed a 60/80 amp bosh style relay I got for $9 on Amazon . Here is the photo of the install .Do you think it's necessary to wrap the spade terminals with cloth or electrical tape just in case it comes loose for the OEM harness ?

 

[real0803]

Also the insulation on these wires melted and I wrapped them in electrical tape for now until I find out what these wires go to . Do you know the function of these wires ?

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Also the insulation on these wires melted and I wrapped them in electrical tape for now until I find out what these wires go to . Do you know the function of these wires ?

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To be clear, you would disregard the wiring diagram that came with that relay. Looks like you have grounded one relay lead. Need to use both of the primary factory wires, one to 85 and the other to 86 on the relay. Do not tie 86 and 30 together as pictured in that diagram, if the relay harness came with the relay that way you will have to change it. The two factory secondary wires go to 30 and 87. Don’t ground any relay leads for this application, the ground would be provided in the factory primary wiring.

Connections pictured appear insulated Ok, no need for tape. On the other wires would need to know where they go or what their function is to determine the cause.

 

[real0803]

To be clear, you would disregard the wiring diagram that came with that relay. Looks like you have grounded one relay lead. Need to use both of the primary factory wires, one to 85 and the other to 86 on the relay. Do not tie 86 and 30 together as pictured in that diagram, if the relay harness came with the relay that way you will have to change it. The two factory secondary wires go to 30 and 87. Don’t ground any relay leads for this application, the ground would be provided in the factory primary wiring.

Connections pictured appear insulated Ok, no need for tape. On the other wires would need to know where they go or what their function is to determine the cause.
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Does it matter what where pin 85 goes to in the primary leads ? There is a dark brown and a light brown coming out of one of them .

 

[Nacho-RT74]

85 and 86 can be interchanged between them. In any order once signals are present on them the relay will close circuit between 30 and 87

On the triggering side a regular use 85 TIPICALLY is used for ground and 86 is TIPICALLY used for the trigger positive signal. But some devices uses a ground signal as a trigger. Soooo, who cares LOL.

On the power path side, the 30 uses to be the input and 87 the output, but once again, once the trigering signals are present on 85/86, the power path circuit is closed so won’t matter anymore which side uses as input and output. Just like a single pole single throw switch.

BETWEEN 30 and 87, the use could be more important using a 5 prongs bosch kind relay, where the 5th prong is labeled 87a and is normally closed to the 30 prong.

The tipical plugs with pigtails coming with these relays uses a thicker red wire for 30 (meaning batt) and thick yellow wire to 87.

 

[MCODECUDA]

You should try going to the dealer to see if they can come up with one.

 

[real0803]

85 and 86 can be interchanged between them. In any order once signals are present on them the relay will close circuit between 30 and 87

On the triggering side a regular use 85 TIPICALLY is used for ground and 86 is TIPICALLY used for the trigger positive signal. But some devices uses a ground signal as a trigger. Soooo, who cares LOL.

On the power path side, the 30 uses to be the input and 87 the output, but once again, once the trigering signals are present on 85/86, the power path circuit is closed so won’t matter anymore which side uses as input and output. Just like a single pole single throw switch.

BETWEEN 30 and 87, the use could be more important using a 5 prongs bosch kind relay, where the 5th prong is labeled 87a and is normally closed to the 30 prong.

The tipical plugs with pigtails coming with these relays uses a thicker red wire for 30 (meaning batt) and thick yellow wire to 87.

 

[real0803]

I wired up the relay like you said . I think it's good. I cant tell if it's charging , it seems to stay at 12.9v at idle . I drove several times it stays at 13.9 but I noticed when I turned on the headlights and AC the voltage goes down .

 

[real0803]

You should try going to the dealer to see if they can come up with one.

I did I called and they said that part has been discontinued over 30 years ago. That's why I purchased a bosh type relay .

 

[real0803]

I wired up the relay like you said . I think it's good. I cant tell if it's charging , it seems to stay at 12.9v at idle . I drove several times it stays at 13.9 but I noticed when I turned on the headlights and AC the voltage goes down .

View attachment 1615910

 

[real0803]

To be clear, you would disregard the wiring diagram that came with that relay. Looks like you have grounded one relay lead. Need to use both of the primary factory wires, one to 85 and the other to 86 on the relay. Do not tie 86 and 30 together as pictured in that diagram, if the relay harness came with the relay that way you will have to change it. The two factory secondary wires go to 30 and 87. Don’t ground any relay leads for this application, the ground would be provided in the factory primary wiring.

Connections pictured appear insulated Ok, no need for tape. On the other wires would need to know where they go or what their function is to determine the cause.
View attachment 1615784

Here is the photo of that melted wire . It to this , I'm not sure what it is .