Help installing crush sleeve eliminator

[HT413]

Hey all, time to fix the leaky crush sleeve on my 489 chunk and wanted to run a few things by you guys 1st. So I've read that I should remove the old crush sleeve, install the new bushing and shim it so the preload is correct.

What preload is right? i've read anywhere from 20-25 in-lbs to 10-12 in-lbs. I've also read that i should measure the original preload 1st (w tires and drums off) and reset to those specs, but i think this is when replacing with a factory type crush sleeve.

also, are there any other steps/tricks to it? Can this be done on the car w basic hand tools or does it need to be done by a 'rear end guy'?

as always, thank you for your help.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I've never gotten too **** about it. I just tighten it down until I can feel resistance. I assume you're eliminating the crush sleeve? That's what it sounds like. Good idea. Also another good idea is a drop or two of red locktite on the threads of the pinion gear. In all the years I've done differential work, I've only put a torque wrench on to check preload maybe three times. After that, I just use my best judgement. Just a little resistance is all you need.

 

[Hemi Rebel]

Leaky crush sleeve? I think you mean pinion seal. That's a new one on me. The preload torque is measured with a special turning torque wrench. A beam type will work, but they can be hard to read while turning.

 

[HT413]

Yup, rusty, i thought i'd eliminate the crush sleeve cuz it seems like the thing to do according to the forums. Thanks for the help and the tip about the locktite.

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Leaky crush sleeve? I think you mean pinion seal. That's a new one on me. The preload torque is measured with a special turning torque wrench. A beam type will work, but they can be hard to read while turning.

Yeah, pinion seal is what i meant. From what i've read, the actual part is called a crush sleeve on 489's, but yeah, it's the pinion seal I meant.

 

[Meep-Meep]

There is a spec for pinion bearing preload in the service manual. I got a small in-lb beam wrench to measure this but I suppose if you developed a good feel you can employ some seat of the pants flying. The preload spec may be with the seal installed.

 

[HT413]

Thanks, meep. I've read this is a simple job but now i'm reading the rear has to be taken out and disassembled. can you guys give me a basic step by step? Looks like because the pinion is tapered, it all has to come out from the inside to get any of this done, right?

thanks,
dan

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This is what I got from the Autozone website to replace with another crushable pinion seal. Is this the same proceedure for installing a crush eliminator kit?

thanks again.

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairguides/Chrysler-Full-Size-Vans-1967-1988-Repair-Guide/Rear-Axle/Pinion-Seal/_/P-0900c1528007ff2b

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION




Chrysler 8 3 / 4 " Axle
An inch-pound torque wrench and a torque wrench capable of at least 200 ft. lbs. are required for pinion seal installation.


1. Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands under the frame rails. Allow the axle to drop to rebound position for working clearance.
2. Remove the rear wheels and brake drums. No drag must be present on the axle.
3. Mark the companion flanges and U-joints for correct reinstallation position.
4. Remove the driveshaft.
5. Using an inch pound torque wrench and socket on the pinion yoke nut measure the amount of torque needed to maintain differential rotation through several clockwise revolutions. Record the measurement.
6. Use a suitable tool to hold the companion flange. Remove the pinion nut and washer.
7. Place a drain pan under the differential, clean the area around the seal, and mark the yoke-to-pinion relation.
8. Use a 2-jawed puller to remove the pinion.
9. Remove the seal with a small prybar.
10. Thoroughly clean the oil seal bore.


If you are not absolutely certain of the proper seal installation depth, the proper seal driver must be used. If the seal is misaligned or damaged during installation, it must be removed and a new seal installed.


11. Drive the new seal into place with a seal driver. Coat the seal ip with clean, waterproof wheel bearing grease.
12. Coat the splines with a small amount of wheel bearing grease and install the yoke, aligning the matchmarks. Never hammer the yoke onto the pinion!
13. Install a NEW nut on the pinion.
14. Hold the yoke with a holding tool. Tighten the pinion nut to 100 ft. lbs. Using the inch-pound torque wrench, take several readings. Continue tightening the nut until the original recorded preload reading is achieved.


Under no circumstances should the preload be more than 5 in. lbs. higher than the original reading.

15. Bearing preload should be uniform through several complete revolutions. If binding exists, the condition must be diagnosed and corrected. The assembly is unacceptable if the final pinion nut torque is below 170 ft. lbs. or pinion bearing preload is not correct.

WARNING
Under no circumstances should the nut be backed off to reduce the preload reading! If the preload is exceeded, the yoke and bearing must be removed and a new collapsible spacer must be installed. The entire process of preload adjustment must be repeated.


16. Install the driveshaft using the matchmarks. Torque the nuts to 15 ft. lbs.

 

[Denis Boucher]

I've never gotten too **** about it. I just tighten it down until I can feel resistance. I assume you're eliminating the crush sleeve? That's what it sounds like. Good idea. Also another good idea is a drop or two of red locktite on the threads of the pinion gear. In all the years I've done differential work, I've only put a torque wrench on to check preload maybe three times. After that, I just use my best judgement. Just a little resistance is all you need.

 

[Daves69]

There's this ..........
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopa...on-8-75-rear-end.165267/page-2#post-911274293