Help on reassembling 67 GTX instrument gages and bezel?

[AR67GTX]

My memory has taken a dump. I sent my GTX instruments off about 3 months ago to get the speedometer rebuilt and I've run into a reassembly question that my memory is failing me on. I should have taken some pictures but this is the 2nd - maybe 3rd time - I've had the panel out of this thing and I thought I would remember the details. The issue is the metal nut strip that runs across the top of the gage cluster and the 3 top screws go through into the dash metal. Does this look like it's supposed to install?

Does it fit under the three tangs from the cluster housing that extend to the front of the dash with the step down towards the cluster face - or sit on top or is the step down to the back of the cluster. The magic marker arrow is from when I had the dash out about 13 years ago and I think it was pointing to the front of the dash as a reminder - but not sure.

I'm feel pretty sure that metal slides under the tangs as it wouldn't be secured sitting on top. But I'm using another cluster bezel that was refinished years ago and has a better lenses and it doesn't seem to want to slide into position as easily as the old one with the metal strip in there. Thus my self-doubts. I would like to be sure this is right before I tighten all the screws and try to cram it back in the dash panel.

And if anyone is real familiar with these 67 instruments and know exactly how the light for the AC/heater controls area mounts - I could really use that help too. I apparently have never had the bulb in the right spot as I never had any illumination of the controls.

Thanks for any help you can provide.

 

[Fran Blacker]

I know the metal acts as a ground. Don't ask how I know.

 

[AR67GTX]

Thinking on it a little more, I think the small head instrument cluster screws don't actually bear on the plastic bezel. I think they go through the upper surface of the bezel and that metal strip acts like a washer and clamps the tangs to the metal of the dash panel. So I think I have it right - the different gage cluster face just isn't seating quite as friendly to the cluster frame as the old one.

 

[AR67GTX]

Well - so much for memory and reasoning. Apparently the plate does go on top according to this photo from a panel for sell on here a couple years ago.

 

[Fran Blacker]

I assume you cleaned it up a bit, you did a fine job on the trans.

 

[AR67GTX]

I assume you cleaned it up a bit, you did a fine job on the trans.

I think it looks pretty good. I had it restored years ago but at the time they said they couldn't find any 150 mph speedometer heads to fix the bouncing speedometer. And when I say bouncing I really mean bouncing - like 0 to 150 mph. It's probably the no 1 issue I've had with the car in recent years. So I sent it off to Instrument Specialties and they went though the speedometer and checked everything else out again. I had a restored panel on it but I've had a better one (better lenses that I hand polished) sitting up in my closet for years. So I decided to swap it out and install it too.

Hope everything is working good now. I pulled the speedometer cable out to lube it with graphite and had a hard time getting it back in the sheathing at one point - I suspect in a tight radius behind the firewall. If it still acts up I may have to try and find a correct length, new speedometer cable. I tried to find one years ago but gave up after receiving one so long I had to put a loop in it to test install it.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Couldn't you put a 150 mph decal and that change trans gear to compensate?
If I ever pull my cluster I'll pm you, original owner put a 150mph in my car.
I meant did you clean up steel strip. Wish mine looked that good.

 

[AR67GTX]

No - but I can scuff it up some to clean it up bright. How does it work on grounding? Is the ground through the cast metal instrument housing/3 tangs - through the steel strip - and to the dash frame metal? Maybe I should run an auxiliary ground wire from a nut on the housing to the dash frame to be certain of a good ground? Electrical has not been a big issue on this old car however. Everything still works in the car with all original wiring harness except the starter/battery cable that I replaced.

 

[Fran Blacker]

It grounds to dash frame. I forget if I put it in backward or left it out, backwards probably. I would think the casting would work too but that it didn't work the way I did it first time.