Help with distributor and hard start

[1971RR]

Ok heres the deal. My last year I pulled my 71 SSP/RR out of a 19 year hibernation. Got her all up and running. Due to some fuel system issues, I replaced the Carter AFB with an Edlebrock 1406 on Saturday. Car started as soon as the gas hit the carb, went into high-idle, sounded good, ran like a scalded ape. However, one issue remains, the thing is a bear to start once warm. I investigated the distributor and found that the vacuum advance was not functioning. I removed the vacuume module and personnaly pulled a vaccum on it and the arm did not move. Gotta order a new one. Next, I pulled an old Mallory Unilite Electronic Distributor with mechanical advance I also have out of hibernation and installed. I put brown wire ground, green wire negative on coil and red wire on ballast on firewall (right side tab). Car was still very hard to start. I did miss a couple wire terminals when I installed the distributor (I had #1 three terminals retarded) but I fixed that. I set timing as close as I could to the 2 1/2 BTC as recommended. No start. I went so far as to rotate the distributor counter-clockwise (retard?), probably 60 degrees or so and try to start, rotate clockwise (advance?) a small tad, try to start and repeated the advance until it was probably 60 in the other direction. She just wont hit right off. Now once she does starts, she runs and idles great. Just that starting when already warm is...embarassing! It did this with the factory distributor as well as the Mallory. Fuel filter is clear. Carb is new. Idle is set around 700-800 with tac. Idle mixture screws set to purr-like-kitten. Time for complete new ingnition system?

 

[67 coronet]

i had that prob with a 70 challenger,turned out to be carb problem,but that was a holley.if you think it is ignition,your likely culpret could be a low output coil.

 

[1971RR]

Didnt think about the coil. I have a multi-meter. How to I verify the output?

 

[Pops1967GTX]

try theses for information
http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?t=4295



http://www.tidewatermoparclub.com/TECH/ign_faq6b.pdf

http://www.msdignition.com/instructions/Products/Tech_Info/WDTN.PDF?terms=WDTN

 

[1971RR]

I forgot to metion that engine vacuum, as measured by my vaccuum gauge under the dash is about 17psi steady. That should be about right if I remember correctly. Thanks for the links Pops! They're a good read already. There's two things I dont like repairing and make me a little gun shy, electrical issues and drywall...

 

[coloradodave]

1971RR; If cold start is Ok and just having a problem when hot, I'd first check for a percolation problem. When it's hot, take off the air cleaner with the engine OFF and look down the venturis of the carb. If there is evidence of gas laying on the butterflies or dripping from the clusters, or you SLOWLY open the butterflies and you see a lot of wetness on the manifold floor, that could be your problem. This could also be an indication of a float level that's too high, or of too much fuel pressure, overcoming the needle and seats' ability to seal during a 'hot soak'. Of course, when it's hot you also want to make sure that the choke valve is fully open when you open the throttle.
Have you pulled the plugs and checked the resistance of the plug wires?
Might try using a timing light. 60* swing in each direction leaves a lot of room for error. If it starts fine when cold and cranks fast when hot your timing shouldn't be an issue for the problem you're having. Good luck and let us know what you find.

 

[oldbee]

71RR---"colorado" has the best idea to my way of thinking.