Help with the suspension setup (Street/Strip 9/10 Second 69 Roadrunner)

[Stevo427]

I need some guidance for my 69 roadrunner. I plan on this car being a legit 9/10 second car that will also be used on the street occasionally(Shows,Grocery Runs around town, street action) .
Front End-
Plans are a Full SWRacecars cage with front down bars that tie into the front rails and shock towers.There will be custom inner fenders because it will be running fender-well headers(Plus I already have them taken off).
The front as it sits is just a stock setup that needs to be rebuilt. I planned on staying with the stock control arms(Possibly adjustable if recommended). I would like to rebuild the front suspension with budget in mind but with that said what would be best for my car. It needs new struts for sure as the stock ones where bent. Would it be best to go with stock or those fancy PST Adjustable ones? Also Whats the best rebuild kit I could get? What kind of shocks would you recommend running, and whats a decent front disc brake kit I could buy that isn't going to break my bank. I want the front end of the car basically done before I move on to the back

Rear End-
I have the stock 8-3/4 with the 3.91 suregrip that's original to the car(Gonna remove it and store it). I plan on building a Dana 60 for the car and I want to run a Ladder bar setup. Car will be mini-Tubbed and thats it. I'm willing to dish out some cash for a nice setup that will work good with my car but I'm seeing a lot of kits and would like some recommendations from people who have a similar setup on there car.
Any help is appreciated. I'm still trying to get familiar with my mopars

Extras:
Car will be manual Trans
Fiberglass Hood,Fenders,Trunklid
Frame connectors for sure
Built 440 on juice

 

[dvw]

First off manual and spray at the starting line is tough. A 833 at 9 seconds and spray won't last long. That being said my 64 has run 9.25@147 with a stock front suspension. The K-frame is trimmed for pan removal. I cut the ends off the strut bars. Turned the ends in the lathe and welded them to chrome moly tube with .250" shorter over all length. Offset upper control arm bushings in the front of the upper A-arms to gain caster. The rear is a home narrowed Dana with 36" S&W ladder bar kit. I run Koni doubles on the rear and QA-1 singles on the front. For me they work great. If I was buying new shocks it would be custom valved Afcos from Mark.
https://www.facebook.com/theshocknerd Not cheap but you'll get the results you need. The car runs swap meet Will Wood brakes, no issue. I have many pics of all aspects of the build if you need. You are building a cage, right?
Doug

 

[Stevo427]

First off manual and spray at the starting line is tough. A 833 at 9 seconds and spray won't last long.

I'm still unsure as to what I am planning for the manual trans. I really enjoy banging gears and cant see myself switching to an auto anytime soon. But it is a possibility. As I don't have an A833 for the car yet I am open to other Manual transmissions as well.

. The rear is a home narrowed Dana with 36" S&W ladder bar kit. I run Koni doubles on the rear and QA-1 singles on the front. For me they work great. If I was buying new shocks it would be custom valved Afcos from Mark.
https://www.facebook.com/theshocknerd Not cheap but you'll get the results you need. The car runs swap meet Will Wood brakes, no issue. I have many pics of all aspects of the build if you need. You are building a cage, right?
Doug

I'm curious as to what your S&W Kit consists of because I don't see an actual kit on there site (Just Individual parts). Would My car require 36" Ladder Bars or is it different for my RR? As of now I have this in mind for the front end

I figured if I was going with a front disc kit I might as well go rear disc also. That way there's no changing of masters and lines later on.
It's a little more then what I wanted to spend but I want quality parts that are going to last. That list would complete my front end other then shocks. If you see anything I could change or add go ahead and recommend away because I'm taking notes.
I would love more pics of your car. I want to build my own D60 like you have as well. I planned on going to junkyard and finding one I could build. It'd be awesome to get more info on how you did/setup your Dana 60

Yes I plan on building my own cage from one of S&W's kits. I planned on running a 10pt cage with front runners to the frame rails and rear seat saver style rear bars (I want to run a rear seat)

 

[dvw]

All B-Bodys except 63-64 dodge start at the same 116" wheel base. I would definitely run the 36" bars. I used the double adjustable bars, front cross member, upper and lower shock mounts from S&W. There is no need for new pivot shafts or torsion bar adjusters. The originals will be fine. My axle started as a 8 lug out of a Ford van. I'd love to run a stick, just don't have the $8500 for all the good parts. I've talked to more that a few guys about what it takes at my power level ( aprox 900). We've done a few cars with the rear seat bar option not to hard. I bent my own cage as I wanted the A-pillar bars o go through the dash. Make sure to fit all the tubes tight.
Doug

 

[Stevo427]

All B-Bodys except 63-64 dodge start at the same 116" wheel base. I would definitely run the 36" bars. I used the double adjustable bars, front cross member, upper and lower shock mounts from S&W. There is no need for new pivot shafts or torsion bar adjusters. The originals will be fine. My axle started as a 8 lug out of a Ford van. I'd love to run a stick, just don't have the $8500 for all the good parts. I've talked to more that a few guys about what it takes at my power level ( aprox 900). We've done a few cars with the rear seat bar option not to hard. I bent my own cage as I wanted the A-pillar bars o go through the dash. Make sure to fit all the tubes tight.
Doug

Only Reason I'm getting new torsion bar adjusters is because I had to use a giant torque wrench to loosen mine (Impact with a torch wouldn't even get it off) :laughing6: And for the pivot shifts one of mine was snapped clean in half when I removed it. So I took that as a sign just replace them . By the way thanks for the help :icon_super:

 

[dvw]

Once you run the torsion bar adjusters out and wire brush, lube them they are usually OK. Rust can always be an issue though. I've never seen a pivot break. Was it rusty?
Doug

 

[Stevo427]

Once you run the torsion bar adjusters out and wire brush, lube them they are usually OK. Rust can always be an issue though. I've never seen a pivot break. Was it rusty?
Doug

Was actually fairly clean looking. I just went to take it off and noticed, was interesting to say the least. I'll throw the torsion bar adjusters in an acid bath for a bit then hit em with a wire wheel and see what happens.