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help!

mr.belvedere

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:08 AM
Joined
Jul 20, 2008
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Location
eagle mills, new york
just replaced my single post neutral safety switch with a 3-prong switch and wiring from napa. i did this so my back up lights could work with my b&m floor shifter, as my factory reverse light switch is operated by the steering column linkage. it bolted right in, i rerouted the wires for the rear lamps, the car started in park and neutral, but now i cant move the shifter passed the neutral position. i've checked the linkage, and re-installed the switch with the shifter in park and neutral. am i missing something? i don't want to have to drop the pan and valve body in my dirt driveway on my back. any suggestions?
ps- i also did check the length of the new switch versus the old from the mounting seat to the steel grounding pin and it is identical.
 
One of the problems with getting older is forgetting stuff. I've been there, done that, but don't remember what the deal is. However, it is obviously the switch, especially if you can reinstall the original and the trans works like before.
 
again i compared the old switch with the napa one and noticed that the nylon portion of the factory switch had a 45 degree 'lead' cut towards the grounding pin, creating a ramp effect. i tried to duplicate this on the new switch, it got better but it seems i still have to force the shifter. maybe i'll spring for the 3747361 at the dealer to see if its any different, but mostly because i trashed the new switch trying to make it work.
 
lol....Necessity is the mother of invention

or is it....if at first you don't succeed, try a bigger hammer

There is definitely something funky with that switch
 
Is the plunger spring pressure stiffer on the new switch compared to the old one? Try backing off the new switch 1/4 turn or so to see if you get results. If that works shim the new switch with copper or aluminum washers. These washers are typically used on German cars (Porsche 911) for sealing oil drain plugs and may have a large enough ID to fit the MoPar switch. Otherwise make some on a lathe out of aluminum bar or cut with snips out of sheet stock.
 
bought the mopar switch today at the dealer and guess what? it was half the price and it works properly! napa is good for most parts but they are all not an exact fit- live and learn. i guess ma was right, there's no substitute for mopar quality. i feel like an idiot because for the past 15 years i've been a mopar parts counter guy. oh well.
 
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