Hey Electrical Gurus, you out there???

[MarPar]

i purchased a couple new 1ohm (allegedly) ballast resistors from Summit....these... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-5206436. i've read that they will leave you stuck if they go out. :sad4:

so i get them, and then decide to ohm out the ballast resistor that's in the car now. :eusa_eh: with the car off, and the wires unhooked, i ohm it out...1.6. so im figuring its on it's way out, right? i ohm out the "new" one, 1.6 as well. WTF. so i ohm out the probes to each other... 0.3.

ok. so i figure out the wires themselves have 0.3 of resistance, right??

since they both ohm out at the same, then it seems that the two ballast resistors interchange then, no?

--------------------------

then i probe my coil (just for the hell of it), its stamped 12 volts on it, but with the car running (and the old ballast resistor hooked up still) it registers 8.65 volts. with the car off, it registers 6, 6.1 volts.

should the coil have only 8.65 volts going to it when it's running??

does the ballast resistor have anything to do with the coil not getting 12 volts??

im quite the noob when it comes to electricity and the like, so if y'all could explain it to me in relatively plain English, it would much appreciated. :toothy6:

 

[70rr-brian]

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...resistor_guide_ballast_blast_off/viewall.html

 

[tpodwdog]

yes,,,the ballast has EVERYTHING do do with the coil...heres what it does....:

your ballast resister cuts power( i should say reduces ) to the coil, from the battery. a coil is a "step up" transformer...that means....one volt in....and many come out...im not sure of the "logistics" of what the meter should read but thats how it works. if you put 12 volts in the coil...youll burn it up...along with the plugs...and thats why you have a ballast resistor.

if it aint broke....dont fix it....youll know you **** a ballast coz the car will start.. but as soon as you let the key spring to "run"...it will shut off. i suggest putting a few in the glove box!

that will cost you 4 Delmonicos and a few porterhouses....thank you...come again! lol:hello2:

NAPA sells those for 3 buxx!

 

[70redbee]

Went to my local NAPA tonite and ordered some Delmonicos and Porterhouse. Said they don't sell them but had ballast resistors for Mopar's if I were interested. I said no thank you, I am headed to Pa. to get a ride in a sweet Javelin.

 

[MarPar]

Went to my local NAPA tonite and ordered some Delmonicos and Porterhouse. Said they don't sell them but had ballast resistors for Mopar's if I were interested. I said no thank you, I am headed to Pa. to get a ride in a sweet Javelin.

LMAO!!!!!

that was good...

i read that article put up by Brian, and it said i dont even need a ballast resistor! i have a Chrysler "orange box" ecu, so i should be good to go, right?

 

[tpodwdog]

then you have electronic ignition...YA DIDNT TELL US THAT!......i called NAPA...theyre out of Delmonicos here too. i think ya still need a ballast with electronic ignition........you dont need a ballast with the porterhouse.

 

[MarPar]

then you have electronic ignition...YA DIDNT TELL US THAT!......i called NAPA...theyre out of Delmonicos here too. i think ya still need a ballast with electronic ignition........you dont need a ballast with the porterhouse.

DOH! sorry, i did forget to mention that previously....

yeah, NAPA has been out of delmonicos for a while now, might have to try summit!!

from the sounds of that article, my coil is right on @ 8.5+ volts, no? taking out the ballast resistor would up it to 12 volts? IDK

i suck at electrical, never really did understand it.

 

[67 B-body]

You would have to do a bit of re-wiring at the ballast in order to eliminate it....
I would keep it though if it were me.... The coil gets full 12V when you crank the engine, and purposely drops in voltage in the run position....
If you eliminate the resistor, as you know the voltage will hold at 12V and might cause the coil to get excessively warm during operation.. Keep an eye on this if you decide to go this route.
Side note,,,, you can jumper the back side of a "Bad" used ballast to give the "factory" look and still maintain 12v if you decide to go that route... It also makes for a good spare to throw in the glove box incase you have an emergency situation along the road side..

 

[tpodwdog]

like i said before....IF IT AINT BROKE, DONT FIX IT. my belvy has ECU on it too with the orange box, and i use a resistor (old style). if the car runs and starts and has no issues...leave it be!....im whispering words of wisdom...LET IT BE !

 

[PoppaSmurf]

MarPar...if your running an EI set up your ballast resis should be 1.12ohms to 1.38 ohms factory standard..
if its a point sys it will be 0.5 ohms to 0.6ohms...
if your running a dual ballast primary side should be 0.5ohms non covered and 1.38ohms covered...
your aux side or second set of contact pins will be 4.75ohms to 5.75ohms...
so its a LITTLE high in resistance @1.6ohms I wouldn't worry bout it ....
the 1ohm from Summit, I might be a little leary of if, its only 1ohm
worst case scenario you get stranded but thats why you carry a spare


I hope this helps alittle........ Peace and OOHHHMMMMMmmmmmmmmmmm......


Just read tpods input I whole heartedly agree, if it works dont mess with it unless you ABSOLUTLY have to..I just went through this crap 3 months ago.. it can be a pain in the ..Happy Halloween...

 

[Meep-Meep]

A ballast resistor is a current limiter and basically protects the primary circuit.

The reason you are seeing 8V while the car is running is because the coil is not "on" all the time. You are getting a duty cycle reading and the meter can't react fast enough to give you the actual "on" reading. Using a scope would show the wave form and the actual voltage when the box fires.

I have an orange box with the standard single ballast and it works, therefore I don't mess with it. I will also point out that the coil primary has a resistance value and that must be within a range that the orange box can handle. The lower the resistance the higher the current flow and too much current demand on the box can blow the output transistor (or transvester as Archie Bunker says).

 

[451Mopar]

The ballast resistor value, and even if you need one, depends on the ignition coil you are using. The ballast resistor is mainly used to keep the stock coil from overheating. An ignition coil with high primary resistance may not need a ballast resistor at all. If the car runs, don't worry about it. If it starts, but then dies when the key is in the "run" position, then the ballast resistor may have burnt out. Having a spare is nice, but you can also just put a piece of wire between the two ballast resistor terminals in an emergency.

 

[RustyRatRod]

No ballast with electronic ignition? News to me, since every single Mopar made since electronic ignition came out and was in its original form had one. Even the Mopar Performance conversion comes with one. You just need the right COIL. It will say on the coil "FOR USE WITH ELECTRONIC IGNITION".

 

[MarPar]

this is why this is the best damn board on the net!!!

It also makes for a good spare to throw in the glove box incase you have an emergency situation along the road side..

this is how i arrived to this thread...i purchased 2 backups @ 1ohm each for emergency purposes.

MarPar...if your running an EI set up your ballast resis should be 1.12ohms to 1.38 ohms factory standard..
if its a point sys it will be 0.5 ohms to 0.6ohms...
if your running a dual ballast primary side should be 0.5ohms non covered and 1.38ohms covered...
your aux side or second set of contact pins will be 4.75ohms to 5.75ohms...
so its a LITTLE high in resistance @1.6ohms I wouldn't worry bout it ....
the 1ohm from Summit, I might be a little leary of if, its only 1ohm
worst case scenario you get stranded but thats why you carry a spare

I hope this helps alittle........ Peace and OOHHHMMMMMmmmmmmmmmmm......

Just read tpods input I whole heartedly agree, if it works dont mess with it unless you ABSOLUTLY have to..I just went through this crap 3 months ago.. it can be a pain in the ..Happy Halloween...

LMAO!! ohhhhmmmmmm!

i ohm'd out both my stock BR in the car, and the new one from scummit, and they ohm'd out at 1.6. could be i have a shitty meter/wires too. Both sets of BR are singles. i guess if it aint really broke, i aint gunna fix it!! if they both ohm out the same, then i could interchange them if the original one goes out, no??

A ballast resistor is a current limiter and basically protects the primary circuit.

The reason you are seeing 8V while the car is running is because the coil is not "on" all the time. You are getting a duty cycle reading and the meter can't react fast enough to give you the actual "on" reading. Using a scope would show the wave form and the actual voltage when the box fires.

I have an orange box with the standard single ballast and it works, therefore I don't mess with it. I will also point out that the coil primary has a resistance value and that must be within a range that the orange box can handle. The lower the resistance the higher the current flow and too much current demand on the box can blow the output transistor (or transvester as Archie Bunker says).

lol good olde Archie! Thanks Meeps, i knew i could count on you for a plain-english explaination!!

The ballast resistor value, and even if you need one, depends on the ignition coil you are using. The ballast resistor is mainly used to keep the stock coil from overheating. An ignition coil with high primary resistance may not need a ballast resistor at all. If the car runs, don't worry about it. If it starts, but then dies when the key is in the "run" position, then the ballast resistor may have burnt out. Having a spare is nice, but you can also just put a piece of wire between the two ballast resistor terminals in an emergency.

the coil im using now is an Echlin (sp?) and it says 12 volt right on it. nothing is wrong with any of my system, but i also dont want to leave HP on the table due to low(er) spark energy to the plugs.

No ballast with electronic ignition? News to me, since every single Mopar made since electronic ignition came out and was in its original form had one. Even the Mopar Performance conversion comes with one. You just need the right COIL. It will say on the coil "FOR USE WITH ELECTRONIC IGNITION".

going to check into this, Rusty...spanks

 

[RustyRatRod]

going to check into this, Rusty...spanks

Here is the Mopar kit.

 

[MarPar]

Here is the Mopar kit.

mine looks bout the same, except the color of the cap of the dizzy...peep it...

 

[67 B-body]

Oh,,, one more thing to consider.. The charging system output!
You might be pumping in something more like 14 - 15v while cruising down the highway from your charging system if you direct wire to the coil....

 

[MarPar]

Oh,,, one more thing to consider.. The charging system output!
You might be pumping in something more like 14 - 15v while cruising down the highway from your charging system if you direct wire to the coil....

very true!! totally forgot bout that!

i do have an aftermarket gauge hooked up and it does register bout 14 or so cruisin'.

 

[terzmo]

I can't get the same ohms reading on any 2 ballast resistors...I get mine from napa for about 6 bucks BUT will change to MSD ignition and scrap that damn thing

 

[PoppaSmurf]

terzmo....now you see what I deal with on a daily basis in audio electronics... stuff made in Mexico...is not equal to stuff made in China, is not equal to stuff made in Japan, is not equal to stuff made in Europe , is not equal to stuff made in the USA.... different composits(the ceramics), different make up of copper ( kinda like Italian Gold vs Mexican gold. vs American gold its all gold but looks and acts different electrically)...all this adds to %'s of consistancy....in manufacturing...and just like our rides a car made on Monday will not be exactly
Identical to the car made on friday in minute(sp) details... its all in tolerances and %'s