Hide Away Headlight Motor Relay Gone Bad

[72 charger]

Hey all in my 72 charger I recently had my hide away headlight motor rebuilt. Was testing it out on the car and every time i would turn on the headlight switch to test the motor the hide away headlight relay(what i came to conclude the noise was coming from) would start to buzz and make the ammeter fluctuate on the discharge side and the lights flicker. I took the relay out and tested it for continuity through the whole relay all checks out good. Took it apart seems to be ok shape to me. Wonder if coil is bad? Or any other suggestions that could cause this issue? Going to attempt to clean contacts on it and try again. Heres some pics the smaller un-opened portion of the relay is a circuit breaker. Which feeds the coil the two gold prongs are for the motor leads and the screw on the relay itself comes from the headlight switch according to my chassis manual.

 

[A383Wing]

you can substitute a 5 pin Bosch relay if this one tests bad..if ya need the diagram, let me know

 

[72 charger]

you can substitute a 5 pin Bosch relay if this one tests bad..if ya need the diagram, let me know

Hey A383Wing, If you wouldnt mind getting me the info on that I would really appreciate it. I was wondering if that could be done because I have a sneaking suspicion this one is bad and a NOS is around 400 bucks. Ouch.

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How can you test to make sure the relay is bad? Something with the coil im assuming?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

this is a diagram I made looong time ago:

you can get repro relays which are allmost exactly same piece, just some prongs disposition changes.

Note... I bet with patiente, the original relay can be fixed or make it work

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can use anyone from any C body equipped too... from ebay or a locla JY, which only real diff is the bracket, quite often the kind of terminals used... BUT, YOU CAN REUSE YOUR RELAY HOUSING ON IT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MoPar-70-72...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5afcc8a395&vxp=mtr


Nos... if you want
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...ays+relay&_nkw=mopar+hideaways+relay&_sacat=0


Repro ( scroll down, $70... they were $100 couple of years ago ):
http://www.chargerspecialties.com/wiring.htm

 

[JamieZ]

Why do you run it from a switched ignition source? If you run it directly (with a fuse/breaker inline) from the battery then the relay would work no matter the key position. Don't the lights work even with the key out?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

you can source it from a keyed source or straight from batt source as you wish, as I say on diagram itself. However factory did it from a keyed source... why?

to be able to change sealed beams without need to keep lights on. Procedure:

1-Key in RUN
2-Lights ON
3-Key in OFF
4-turn lights off

this will keep doors open and lights off to replace if needed, or service the area, cleaning etc...

 

[JamieZ]

I suppose. Of course if you forget to turn the lights off before turning off the key you're stuck with the doors open. Or if you've parked the car with the lights off and headlight doors closed you can't open them without putting the key in.
The vacuum ones have a can which is supposed to actuate the doors even when the engine is off....figured the electric ones would be the same way.

 

[72 charger]

Thanks for the diagrams and Info on Repo relays. But heres where I am at with this issue. I took the relay apart so I could see the contacts etc. Checked the relay by hooking it up directly to 12v battery. Contacts close and hold fine do not to the chattering I previously stated. So I hooked it back up to the factory wiring minus the leads to the motor to eliminate that as an issue and again left the cover off the relay to see what it does. With the motor leads NOT CONNECTED the contact again holds no chattering arcing or anything when the headlight switch is pulled and key is on. Now when I hook the motor leads up to the relay and turn key to on position turn headlight switch on the motor seems to lift the covers all the way and then by that point the relay has pulled in and is holding but it arcs and makes a buzzing noise. The contacts do not chatter and flutter it simply arcs on the contact as it is pulled in. Im not sure if there is something in the motor causing this? Is there something in the motor that tells the relay when it is fully open to quit calling for power? Not sure what to think on this one any help would be appreciated.

Update: I've read into my service manual and I believe that my limit switch on the motor is not working correctly making the motor call for power all the time when going up causing it to arc on the leads.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I suppose. Of course if you forget to turn the lights off before turning off the key you're stuck with the doors open. Or if you've parked the car with the lights off and headlight doors closed you can't open them without putting the key in.

as any regular accesory where you need tu put the key in Run or acc, like cars with powered antennas, or powered windows etc...

IN FACT cars with headlight time delay option and concelead grilles will keep open anyway, because light circuit Will remain sourced by the relay. Is a need to be able to make its function.

The vacuum ones have a can which is supposed to actuate the doors even when the engine is off....figured the electric ones would be the same way.

vacuum is a diff kind of source non electrical related so is not dependable for power, just vacuum reservoir. AND vacuum section of switch works at the same time than the electrical section. To not do it, would need somekind of electrical valve which cut the vacuum source when key is off...

 

[72 Charger SE]

I suppose. Of course if you forget to turn the lights off before turning off the key you're stuck with the doors open. Or if you've parked the car with the lights off and headlight doors closed you can't open them without putting the key in.
The vacuum ones have a can which is supposed to actuate the doors even when the engine is off....figured the electric ones would be the same way.

Minor correction: You can open the headlight doors manually by turning the knob on the bottom of the headlight door motor. It's easy to reach.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

yeap, but need to pop up the hood etc... easier simply put the key in back and switch to RUN then back to OFF, not even need to turn on and off the lights