High flow pulley

[71_Duster]

I didn't want to hijack another thread about overheating. I see that the smaller hemi water pump pullet has been mentioned a few times and I looked into it but they want an arm and a leg for the thing.

Has anyone tried CVF or March's "high flow" pulley? They keep the stock sized water pump but change the crank pulley it seems.

Stealth Black Chrysler Big Block Crankshaft Pulley - 2V High Flow

Chrysler High Flow V-Belt Crankshaft Pulley (2V)

 

[R413]

That smaller hemi water pump pulley needs a different crank pulley to drive it. The matching hemi crank pulley won't work on a wedge balancer. And it uses a two groove alternator pulley with the belt on the front groove, not the rear.

 

[lewtot184]

I've done the smaller water pump pulley thing before. Meant nothing as far as cooling my engine down.

 

[71_Duster]

I was hoping it might be a cheaper solution but kind of figured it wouldn't be the magic bullet for idling in traffic. Waiting to hear back from Glen-ray as well may be time for a 26" rad.

 

[Cranky]

I was hoping it might be a cheaper solution but kind of figured it wouldn't be the magic bullet for idling in traffic. Waiting to hear back from Glen-ray as well may be time for a 26" rad.

I assume you have the smaller rad? Lots of guys think that a 4 core rad is the answer but most times, it's not. Larger tubes in a 2 or 3 core is usually better.

 

[71_Duster]

I have a 22" aluminum rad from Wizard cooling (which was it's own **** show). It's a 2 core with the bigger tubes. I've had the traffic heating issues (210 with stop and go) with 2 different 440's the current is built and dyno'd @ 520 hp I've tried multiple different clutch type mechanical fans (currently the 18" 7 blade) it also has Wizards shroud on it. A Flow kooler water pump, multiple different t-stats. Distributor was curved to the car. The trans cooler is removed from the rad you name it.

I just tried Tony's Parts thermostatic fan clutch which was worse so went back to my Tony's parts torque style clutch. I was readying another member fighting their temp issues and saw mention of the hemi water pump pulley so went down that rabbit hole and was ready what I could. Thats when I found the "hi-flow" crank pullies from 2 sources that would do the same thing to spin the pump/fan faster

 

[Orig69]

How quickly does it get too hot after starting it up?

Does the temperature gauge fluctuate?

 

[davek]

is you fan blade 1/2 in the shroud?

 

[71_Duster]

Blades half in. If I stay moving I can drive it all day no issue. When I hit stop and go it starts to creep 2 or 3 lights and it'll be at 210, once I get moving it will slowly come back down.

 

[davek]

Have you tried to go all factory?

 

[khryslerkid]

Have you compared you readings with a IR gun? Check your manifolds/headers heat range right at the ports to see if your running lean causing the extra heat.

On a real hot day in stop and go traffic I might see 200 which isn't that bad using 10% gas during the summer. Moving its at 180 all day.

440, iron heads, 22" aluminum, two 1"core radiator, 7 blade fan with shroud. Factory iron water pump housing and factory water pump.

This factory pump moves plenty of coolant. I don't know why all these aftermarket part outfits are trying to make things better than factory when they don't.

 

[Some Car Guy]

All I know is from what I’ve personally done. Big radiator to give you capacity, good pump to give you flow. Putting a 26 where a 22 grew is perfectly acceptable and cutting isn’t always a requirement to get the job done.

Watch the water flowing with a stock pump. Then put something like an Edelbrock in and watch a raging river go by.