Holley Sniper and Hyperspark

[two4ruff]

Hello,

I'm in the process of rewiring a 1970 Charger 500 318. I have a completely rebuilt wiring harness. I'm adding the Sniper EFI and Hyperspark with the control box and coil. The Hyperspark and EFI all wire direct to the battery with the exception of the ignition on. Do I need a ballast resistor and voltage regulator?

Thanks!!

 

[beanhead]

No ballast resistor. You still need the regulator if you're not using an internally-regulated alternator.
With the Sniper I highly recommend an internally regulated alternator from a later-model vehicle. It will help reduce RFI noise that Snipers seem to have a lot of problems with.

 

[two4ruff]

No ballast resistor. You still need the regulator if you're not using an internally-regulated alternator.
With the Sniper I highly recommend an internally regulated alternator from a later-model vehicle. It will help reduce RFI noise that Snipers seem to have a lot of problems with.

Ok, thanks a bunch. That's great information. It's an original AC car too and I have a Vintage Air system so I'm going to have a lot of leftover OE plugs.

 

[two4ruff]

No ballast resistor. You still need the regulator if you're not using an internally-regulated alternator.
With the Sniper I highly recommend an internally regulated alternator from a later-model vehicle. It will help reduce RFI noise that Snipers seem to have a lot of problems with.

Well I ordered the alternator a year ago. It is internally regulated. Tuff Stuff Performance 8509DDP Tuff Stuff Performance High-Amp Output Factory Cast-Plus Alternators | Summit Racing In this case as you said I don't need a voltage regulator. I purchased a higher amperage alternator to run the fans, fuel injection, ignition and small amp. Would you recommend using the OE (but new) wire that runs from the alternator to the bulkhead or is there some other charging option? From what I see on the schematic it runs through the ammeter and back to the battery through the starter solenoid. Thanks again for the information.

 

[snakeoil24]

I would buy a late model alternator the tuff stuff will be noisey

 

[funknut]

Well I ordered the alternator a year ago. It is internally regulated. Tuff Stuff Performance 8509DDP Tuff Stuff Performance High-Amp Output Factory Cast-Plus Alternators | Summit Racing In this case as you said I don't need a voltage regulator. I purchased a higher amperage alternator to run the fans, fuel injection, ignition and small amp. Would you recommend using the OE (but new) wire that runs from the alternator to the bulkhead or is there some other charging option? From what I see on the schematic it runs through the ammeter and back to the battery through the starter solenoid. Thanks again for the information.

This is the age-old debate about ammeter bypass.

Many people don't like the idea of all the charging current going through the bulkhead connector (twice) and the ammeter. Many other people will tell you that it's fine so long as you have clean contacts. A modern alternator can easily triple what the OE ones put out.

I didn't want to deal with any potential issues and ended up replacing my ammeter with a voltmeter and just running a 6 gauge charge wire directly from the alternator to the battery.

I sleep fine at night. ;)

 

[beanhead]

Well I ordered the alternator a year ago. It is internally regulated. Tuff Stuff Performance 8509DDP Tuff Stuff Performance High-Amp Output Factory Cast-Plus Alternators | Summit Racing In this case as you said I don't need a voltage regulator. I purchased a higher amperage alternator to run the fans, fuel injection, ignition and small amp. Would you recommend using the OE (but new) wire that runs from the alternator to the bulkhead or is there some other charging option? From what I see on the schematic it runs through the ammeter and back to the battery through the starter solenoid. Thanks again for the information.

Once you start adding the current requirements off all your new stuff to what it already carries (lights etc) the factoty wire will likely not be large enough. A common upgrade with EFI installs is to use a second wire (#8 at a minimum, 6 or even 4 is better here) directly from the alternator output stud to the battery or start solenoid with an appropriately sized inline fuse. It's safer and it provides a direct path for powering the sensitive EFI components.
The drawback is the ammeter will no longer be accurate, most folks simply install a voltmeter or you can convert your ammeter to a voltmeter to keep the factory gauge look.

 

[70ChargerRT]

I’ve ran both regulators, a solid state external and 1 wire internal. No RFi from either one but I currently run a 160 amp 1 wire powermaster that has 100 idling amps, you’ll need that kind of alternator if you plan on running e-fans. Im assuming you’re going to run a a voltmeter. Run a 4 gauge wire from the alt to the battery and then ground the alternator to the frame with the same size wire. I also over grounded the car. I ground both heads to the firewall and battery. Block to frame, frame to battery and I think a few more lol. If you’re running the correct plugs, wires, hook everything up correctly to the battery about the only RFi interference you’ll have from a Mopar Will be in your ignition source. You’ll tie your ign#1 and ign#2 from you ballad resistor for your ign. source and then you’ll need to put it on a 30 amp relay to get rid of the RFi. Had a RFi issue and called Holley and right away they identified it. Put the relay on it and never a problem again.

 

[two4ruff]

I found this link on ammeter bypass. Catalog Any thoughts.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

I found this link on ammeter bypass. Catalog Any thoughts.

About the Mad Electrical bypass? Just a few. Do a search on “ammeter”, plenty of past threads here on the subject, lots of opinions and some facts.

I’m running 130amp alternators, lots of added electrical loads (Including a Snipper/Hyperspark), correctly loaded on the alternator side of the fully functional ammeter, I sleep just fine as well.

 

[two4ruff]

About the Mad Electrical bypass? Just a few. Do a search on “ammeter”, plenty of past threads here on the subject, lots of opinions and some facts.

I’m running 130amp alternators, lots of added electrical loads (Including a Snipper/Hyperspark), correctly loaded on the alternator side of the fully functional ammeter, I sleep just fine as well.

Did you retain the original wiring to the ammeter and run and additional heavier gage wire from the alternator to the battery?

 

[two4ruff]

I’ve ran both regulators, a solid state external and 1 wire internal. No RFi from either one but I currently run a 160 amp 1 wire powermaster that has 100 idling amps, you’ll need that kind of alternator if you plan on running e-fans. Im assuming you’re going to run a a voltmeter. Run a 4 gauge wire from the alt to the battery and then ground the alternator to the frame with the same size wire. I also over grounded the car. I ground both heads to the firewall and battery. Block to frame, frame to battery and I think a few more lol. If you’re running the correct plugs, wires, hook everything up correctly to the battery about the only RFi interference you’ll have from a Mopar Will be in your ignition source. You’ll tie your ign#1 and ign#2 from you ballad resistor for your ign. source and then you’ll need to put it on a 30 amp relay to get rid of the RFi. Had a RFi issue and called Holley and right away they identified it. Put the relay on it and never a problem again.

Did you retain the original wire from the alternator to the ammeter in addition to the 4 gauge to the battery?

 

[two4ruff]

I’ve ran both regulators, a solid state external and 1 wire internal. No RFi from either one but I currently run a 160 amp 1 wire powermaster that has 100 idling amps, you’ll need that kind of alternator if you plan on running e-fans. Im assuming you’re going to run a a voltmeter. Run a 4 gauge wire from the alt to the battery and then ground the alternator to the frame with the same size wire. I also over grounded the car. I ground both heads to the firewall and battery. Block to frame, frame to battery and I think a few more lol. If you’re running the correct plugs, wires, hook everything up correctly to the battery about the only RFi interference you’ll have from a Mopar Will be in your ignition source. You’ll tie your ign#1 and ign#2 from you ballad resistor for your ign. source and then you’ll need to put it on a 30 amp relay to get rid of the RFi. Had a RFi issue and called Holley and right away they identified it. Put the relay on it and never a problem again.

I'm not sure what you mean by Ignition 1 and 2. Is that either side of the ballast resistor? I'm considering removing the ballast resistor connectors and soldering them together. I can hide the wires in the harness that way. Would that connection be a good 12v key on source for the EFI, Hyperspark and fans?

 

[70ChargerRT]

I'm not sure what you mean by Ignition 1 and 2. Is that either side of the ballast resistor? I'm considering removing the ballast resistor connectors and soldering them together. I can hide the wires in the harness that way. Would that connection be a good 12v key on source for the EFI, Hyperspark and fans?

Yes that’s both sides of the ballast resistor. Tie both sides together and that’s a good key on source.

 

[70ChargerRT]

Did you retain the original wire from the alternator to the ammeter in addition to the 4 gauge to the battery?

Yes and did away with the 2 field wires that went to the Alternator but make sure you ground that alternator to the frame with the same size 4 gauge battery.

 

[two4ruff]

Yes and did away with the 2 field wires that went to the Alternator but make sure you ground that alternator to the frame with the same size 4 gauge battery.

Great, I'll do that. 4ga hot and 4ga ground from the alternator. I'll leave the ammeter wire in place. I have a new harness from Bill Evans. Just pulled all the tape off and deleting wires to clean it up and avoid any shorts.

 

[70ChargerRT]

Great, I'll do that. 4ga hot and 4ga ground from the alternator. I'll leave the ammeter wire in place. I have a new harness from Bill Evans. Just pulled all the tape off and deleting wires to clean it up and avoid any shorts.

Yeah. Tie the 2 wires together that went to ammeter. Some people solder them together but I put a stud ring on both ends and bolted them together so I can is use it as a key off hot 12v only for low amperage and of course with an inline fuse. Putting stud rings on them just makes it quicker for me to tie something in to it.

 

[Loren White]

Hello,

I'm in the process of rewiring a 1970 Charger 500 318. I have a completely rebuilt wiring harness. I'm adding the Sniper EFI and Hyperspark with the control box and coil. The Hyperspark and EFI all wire direct to the battery with the exception of the ignition on. Do I need a ballast resistor and voltage regulator?

Thanks!!

No Sir. The Hyperspark system replaces both of those components.