• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Hood surgery for adding a scoop.

SandDiesel

Well-Known Member
Local time
12:24 AM
Joined
Sep 7, 2010
Messages
342
Reaction score
9
Location
SoCal
For those that added a hemi scoop, how did you modify the hood braces? Did you just cut and leave them or rebrace them again somehow after cutting? If you have pics please post them. Thanks.
 
Not sure what the underside of a 65 hood looks like, but on the 64's the open area between the framework looks like a smaller version of a Hemi Scoop...but still quite large...no frame cutting involved.

Personally if I had to cut the framework, i'd weld end plates to the cut braces to give it more of a finished look and a bit more rigidity.
 
heres a few pictures of my a990 hemi coronet for comparison
 

Attachments

  • 63 plymouth max wedge at ATCO 4.26.09 759.JPG
    63 plymouth max wedge at ATCO 4.26.09 759.JPG
    163.6 KB · Views: 595
  • 63 plymouth max wedge at ATCO 4.26.09 758.JPG
    63 plymouth max wedge at ATCO 4.26.09 758.JPG
    159 KB · Views: 598
  • 63 plymouth max wedge at ATCO 4.26.09 760.JPG
    63 plymouth max wedge at ATCO 4.26.09 760.JPG
    156.2 KB · Views: 625
It'd be tempting to go with the AAR hood and add their scoop but cheaper if they combined them into a single unit. Separate 65 hood and scoop = $715. Other hoods with scoop combined are $480-$580.
 
Here is mine. The channels have been filled like Redpolara describes above.
 

Attachments

  • 112_1275.jpg
    112_1275.jpg
    76.8 KB · Views: 563
Scoop already on mine !

My hood is all glass with the scoop attached ! It is a nice piece. Lift off and I cut the whole and reinforced it with fiberglass. I can't remember who did it and if you are intertested I will look for the receipt.. About $700 deliever to California !
 

Attachments

  • B body copy 2.jpg
    B body copy 2.jpg
    78.5 KB · Views: 540
We cut my hood to fit the plate that fit against the stacks, borrowed an original one to get it right, he wouldn't sell it, cut braces to clear with cut off saw. Racer from back ion the day was critical of the car due to the neat cuts, he says the originals were rough cut and not finished. I have seen one 65 A990 car and they were rough. I have never seen a real 64 car. My scoop came form a glass shop in Ft Worth TX, when I get home I'll get you deminsions and pictures, on the glass scoops be sure to see how they mount.
 
I did not cut any of my hood braces and just opened the center for air flow. I welded a piece of 1/8 inch grate to the top of the hood to restore some strength. I liked this better than cutting out all of the hood in the middle of the center brace.

I have seen others cut out the hood the size of the scoop and not do anything to reinforce the hood.
 

Attachments

  • Hood2.jpg
    Hood2.jpg
    45.5 KB · Views: 515
  • Hood1.jpg
    Hood1.jpg
    49.7 KB · Views: 540
ChgrSteve67, not sure why but I have very little hood clearance for the 383 now. The air cleaner I have is only two inches tall and it sits on a Holly Street Dominator and Edelbrock. If I build a motor and use a taller intake I'll need that hole cut just for a 3" cleaner to poke through even with a drop base cleaner.
 
Took me a while to find a big enought drop base to fit to use a larger air filter. You can see the size of mine in the pic. I didn't know if you were adding the scoop for additional clearence or not. Figured I would post mine for comparison.

Having a off center motor in Mopars doesn't help when trying to figure out where to cut a hole.

I say cut your hole and see what it does to the stability of the hood and then add supports as needed. If you cut a hood brace I would box it in to add some strength back to it. I also made supports in my scoop to provide some additional support once I bolted the scoop to the hood. Don't want anything comming off.

Hey after all the engineering and fabrication of a build is the fun part. Measure, Cut, drink a beer, think about it, repeat steps 1 through 4. Its what makes our cars unique.

let us know how it goes.
 
I'm struggling with this surgery too. Next week my glass hood is coming off and I am going to reinstall this OEM hood.

SDC11190.jpg


The center circle defined on this hood would be perfect - except the distance from the back edge of the hood to the edge of the "natural" circle is 10.5" and this is exactly the distance I will need to clear my 14" air cleaner at the rear. I will either need to cut into the circular channel that surrounds the center flat spot to open it up - or go with a smaller diameter air cleaner. If I do cut into the channel / frame some I guess I will also need to butt weld in a piece all around it to maintain the gap between the frame and the top sheet metal?
 
If you mean me ? I don't plan to fill the channels with anything. Don't see any need or benefit from filling them. The sheet metal is about 1/4" off of the channels anyway and the two sections are just stuck together with putty. What I do plan is to weld the top skin to the channel at the circular cut - but it will need to be boxed to maintain the 1/4" gap or else the skin will be pulled down.
 
i went to a friend of mine that was restoring a 65 a-990 and i made a template off the factory hood holes
 
Iam also going through this same process for my 63 Fury using a steel hood that had previously had a center hole cut in it opening the whole area within the braces . The problem was my engine has 3 inches offset,What I did was use a air cleaner base (14") that has a off set opening for the carb. This one is a Moroso but there are also generic ones stock car guys use.
 
I have seen those offset bases. Do you know if there is a dropped base offset and if so do they offset fromt he rear to the front or ??
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top