How to measure front floor pan to floor tunnel to make a cut along tunnel to fit

[moparjohnny]

How to mark pan against tunnel for a good a good cut and fit? Thanks

 

[wannadrag]

I lap welded mine,just laid the new over the old and marked it.Cut a inch below the line and ended up with a half inch lap.

 

[fatecaptured]

our u could lay it over the top of the old and use a scribe to trace the outside of the piece, then cut as close to the line as possible. Then butt weld the new piece to the old one. (Make sure they are even!)
Just about every adjustable square has a scribe on the end. Anyone doing fab work should get one(adjustable square). They can be had at a hardware store for around $10 for a 12". I prefer squares with metric measurements just cause thats what i'm used to using at work.

 

[wannadrag]

If you lay it over the old DO NOT CUT ON THE LINE.You have to remember its sitting higher when marked it and you'll end up with a gap you could throw a cat through.

 

[fatecaptured]

yeah, what he said. ^^^ my mistake, forgot its not a straight piece. But still a scribe is more accurate than a magic marker and thinner. Like "wannadrag" stated earlier, measure down from the line 1" or so and cut.

 

[coloradodave]

"If you lay it over the old DO NOT CUT ON THE LINE.You have to remember its sitting higher when marked it and you'll end up with a gap you could throw a cat through."

That's pretty funny....thanks!

 

[roadrunnerman]

Just remember, when you do measure and start cutting the old floor out. When you start cutting close to the firewall seam, you might want to cut down at a little angle and not so horizontal in the gas pedal area. I cut too much off there when i did mine and now i have to patch a little metal in there.

 

[moparjohnny]

hi,just read your answer to this question,what would be the difference in using a scribe mark,oppose to using a regular marker? how can scribe mark make it a much closer fit than what the other guys are talking about? they say mark it and cut inch below that mark,your suggestion would be a much closer fir to butt weld? i like your idea,how do use one of those. thanks

 

[fatecaptured]

hi,just read your answer to this question,what would be the difference in using a scribe mark,oppose to using a regular marker? how can scribe mark make it a much closer fit than what the other guys are talking about? they say mark it and cut inch below that mark,your suggestion would be a much closer fir to butt weld? i like your idea,how do use one of those. thanks

Well I meant "scratch awl" not scribe. Sorry for the mix up there. A scribe is actually an electric jewelers tool. Not what I was refering to. The reason I like the scratch awl better than a marker is because it makes a much thinner line and can't be smudged. And its more accurate than a 3mm wide sharpie mark that can very from 1mm-3mm back to 2mm. I fabricated farm machinery and made allot of my own parts by hand without any fixtures (jigs). Just a blue print, tape measure, & various squares. I found that the scratch awl got me in less trouble than them damn sharpie markers. Especially since I only had a 2mm tolerance in most cases.

But I do agree with ColoradoDave and Wannadrag. Laying it over the top of the old floor makes sit higher in the well, and will cause the marks to be way off if you make ur first cut on the line. Like they said give urself a good inch and trim to fit if your going to butt weld them together. Or just weld them lapping each other.

Just so you know a lap weld is much stronger than a butt weld. A butt weld is easier to hide but not as strong. A lap with plug welds is even better. Ok i'll shut up now..:VB toast: