How to properly adjust the Lokar trans cable on a 727 ?

[64fury74charger]

I put a Weiand 8008 intake on and also installed Lokar throttle and trans cables. According to the Lokar directions for the trans cable the throttle wide open and then pull the cable tight and tighten the keeper on the cable. This is not working for the transmission, so I have been gradually putting more slack in the cable with the throttle closed. It’s getting better but the shift to 3rd is still too hard. There’s no return spring on the trans lever like there was with the old linkage and I am hoping someone here has been through this and can give me some direction here. Thank you.

Dan

 

[451Mopar]

Do you have the Chrysler throttle adaptor on the carb?
I think the throttle cable normally attaches further ahead if the shaft?
On the kickdown cable, I have had to remove the inner cable and cut the outer sheath shorter to get full range of movement.
Post a closer photo of the linkage, it is difficult to see it in the photo above.

 

[64fury74charger]

Do you have the Chrysler throttle adaptor on the carb?
I think the throttle cable normally attaches further ahead if the shaft?
On the kickdown cable, I have had to remove the inner cable and cut the outer sheath shorter to get full range of movement.
Post a closer photo of the linkage, it is difficult to see it in the photo above.

I removed the adapter and the carb end for the transmission is bolted directly on the bottom of the throttle on my Edelbrock carb. That adapter didn’t look right with the cable setup. I will get you some clearer pictures in the morning. Thank you for your help.

Dan

 

[451Mopar]

I'm trying to recall what I did, but I was using Holley. I think your right, you don't use the adaptor.
I recall having to locate the throttle cable more forward, because I was having an issue getting WOT.
I don't think I had to make a new hole in the trans kickdown lever to make the lever rotate farther with less throttle position?

 

[65-440]

Ok...1st make sure your throttle cable is adjusted right and you're getting WOT with the pedal on the floor...on an edelbrock I thought you needed that Chrysler adapter? On my holleys you do not need anything.....I put a heavy object on the gas pedal to keep the carb at WOT, then pull the kickdown cable until the lever at the trans is pulled all the way back then lock it down...they key to this working right or not is the length of your kickdown lever, you need to use the shortest lever possible or drill holes in you current one to change the amount of travel...I used the shortest factory one I could find and it worked perfectly.....
As far as a return spring at the trans side, I am using one. It helps return the lever when you come to a stop, if not you might be taking off with that lever already partially through its range of travel..

 

[beanhead]

Hard shifting is what happens when the linkage isn't hooked up, or isn't generating enough line pressure. You've got way too much slack if you're running it like that...not good.
Those don't look to be installed properly. You don't want that extra loop in the cable housing like you have on the top cable. They should both be mostly tight when at rest, the kickdown cable should have maybe 1/4" or so of free pull before it starts engaging; you'll feel the tension from the transmission end when testing it by hand. When the throttle return springs pull the throttle closed, the cable will return the kickdown to it's resting position, that's why you can't have extra length on either cable.
FWIW I've never had any issues with shift points once adjusted properly, never drilled anything to change the geometry and it's worked flawless on 3 engines...

Maybe this will give an idea and get you close, he's demonstrating the amount of slack in the cable before tension is felt.

 

[65-440]

Hard shifting is what happens when the linkage isn't hooked up, or isn't generating enough line pressure. You've got way too much slack if you're running it like that...not good.
Those don't look to be installed properly. You don't want that extra loop in the cable housing like you have on the top cable. They should both be mostly tight when at rest, the kickdown cable should have maybe 1/4" or so of free pull before it starts engaging; you'll feel the tension from the transmission end when testing it by hand. When the throttle return springs pull the throttle closed, the cable will return the kickdown to it's resting position, that's why you can't have extra length on either cable.
FWIW I've never had any issues with shift points once adjusted properly, never drilled anything to change the geometry and it's worked flawless on 3 engines...

Maybe this will give an idea and get you close, he's demonstrating the amount of slack in the cable before tension is felt.

Have all 3 of these engines utilized the same length lever at the trans? Maybe you got lucky and started out with the short lever on all....the long levers need holes drilled closer to the "pivot point" ..

 

[64fury74charger]

Hopefully these pictures are clear enough to see details. I put a 2nd cable stop on the back of the trans cable to see if that would help the cable push the lever back on the transmission, but haven’t test driven yet this morning.
Is this adjustment made with throttle wide open? That’s how I did it initially according to the Lokar instructions. I am probably making this more complicated than it is...


Lokar is really nice to work with and looks good too
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Also I shortened the housing on the transmission cable about 4 inches to make sure to have long enough cable.
Dan

 

[MoparLeo]

Here is an old Hot Rod magazine article on adjusting the Lokar cables on an LA engine. Also a much better return spring set-up.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/the-lowdown-on-stock-torqueflite-kick-down-linkage/

 

[dadsbee]

Mine on the Dart.... hard to see, but note the long lightish spring in the final picture from the kick down lever to the shifter bracket to help pull the cable back.

 

[64fury74charger]

Here is an old Hot Rod magazine article on adjusting the Lokar cables on an LA engine. Also a much better return spring set-up.
https://www.hotrod.com/articles/the-lowdown-on-stock-torqueflite-kick-down-linkage/

Thanks for the article, looks like I need the lever roughly center of travel and that’s where the Lokar direction is not correct at least for my application.

 

[64fury74charger]

I have double checked and verified wot with a mirror down the carb so the throttle looks good and now I have a different starting point to adjust the KD cable and see if I can dial it in.

Many thanks to everyone for your help. Hopefully soon I can report success. Glad it’s a 3 day weekend because I plan on driving the Charger to work this week. My wife took the Fury to work today and all the smiles.....

 

[64fury74charger]

Lots of fun and done Made very small adjustments on the cable stop after each test drive and found the sweet spot.
Wow is this going to be a nice improvement and I also installed a soft spring on the trans lever to help it return to rest.

This FBBO site is awesome

Dan