how to replace master cylinder and booster

[d9103365]

I need to replace the booster and master cylinder on my 1975 fury 2 door. I'm thinking that this should be an entirely bolt on operation...no special procedures....would you agree? Just unplug the wires...unbolt and yank off the old assemply and bolt on the new....then dump some fluid in there and go.

What do you think? Do I need to do any brake bleeding or other procedure? brake bleeding is hard cause it takes two people to do...unless you guys have a special technique?

 

[super-bee_ski]

If it's like a 70 B-body, the Steering column to the firewall gets inbolted.
Also, brackets underneath the dash.
The booster mounts to the Steering Column interface plate between the Firewall and the interior underneath the dash.

Yes on the Brake bleed.
I did this MOD in an afternoon in my garage.

 

[Propwash]

Like Ski mentioned above, you definitely need to bleed your brakes. Also, you should bench bleed the new master as well. As far as bleeding the brakes, there are several ways to do that without two people. Go to any auto parts store and buy a cheap one man bleeder kit, hand operated pressure bleeder or a reverse pressure kit. Heck, I've used a hunk of aquarium air line tubing and a coke bottle to bleed the brakes. Get the car level as possible, hook the line to the bleeder, run the other side of the line into a soda bottle (so the end of the line sits right on the bottom of the bottle), crack open the bleeder and pump the brake a few times. Observe the line, looking for bubbles. No need to crack the bleeder open and shut each pump of the brakes, leave it open. The air bubbles will come out when pushing down on the brake. When letting off, as long as the line is submerged in fluid at the bottom of the bottle, only fluid will be pulled back up into the line when releasing the brake. If you need to dump the bottle getting full, then close the bleeder before removing the line from the brake fluid. Keeping doing this process until no bubbles are seen coming out of the line. I always start on the wheel furthest away from the master and work my way forward. Easy stuff man.

 

[super-bee_ski]

X2
Propwash is correct, very importasnt step is to "Bench Bleed" the Master cylinder.
You will be happy you did this.
PS: I purchased a Vacula Brake Bleed kit.
It's convenient.

 

[440+6]

Must bench bleed the master, when I bleed my brakes I use the one way bleeder valves on all 4 corners, that way I don't worry about sucking air back in. Or if you have help, do it the old fashion way.

 

[nm9stheham]

MUST is the correct word for the requirement to bench bleed a master cylinder. This CAN be done on the car but it will be a mess if you do not pump the pedal really slow because the best bench bleed technique requires the top to be off so that the bleed hoses loop back into the MC wells, and some fluid will squirt back up from the fluid intake holes and squirt out of you pump too fast. Once the bench bleed is done, then the 2 MC lines are hooked up and you bleed the individual lines and wheel cylinders or calipers. And beware that brake fluid eats paint.

 

[moperformance]

Don't know if you knew? But after you do all of the above and the assembly is in the car, and before you hook up the lines to the prop valve. Push the brake pedal to the floor once, hold it there with a stick cut to size that will fit up against the seat and the peddle which is all the way down to the floor. This will keep any more brake fluid draining out the master cylinder while you hook up the lines. After you get the lines hooked up, remove the stick and when the pedal comes up your ready to bleed. Do the furthest (right) wheel first than left rear. Rt front than left front. Don't let the reservoir run dry or you'll be starting over.
Hope this helps.
Good luck