Hurst shifter issues

[wasco]

View attachment 433606 Good evening,

I finally decided to take apart the Hurst shifter, clean it up, and do a quick mock up on the transmission. I have a 6356 shifter with non-console handle and all the lever numbers check out. I picked up a Hurst installation kit a couple months ago - 373 4089. I'm wondering if there is room for 'interpretation' on these kits and instructions? They picture all the 'adjustment buttons' that go into the gear levers under the shifter as facing all the same way, but it will only work if I match the buttons to the rods - the 1-2 rod goes inside, the button goes inside; the 3-4 rod goes outside, the button goes outside. If I put them like they have in the instructions, they hit each other. I guess if it works the way I have it, it works?

Also, the 3-4 rod is listed in the instructions as #3880 but the rod in the kit has the number #3830 08? Did they change part numbers or does my kit have the wrong one?

The reverse lever on the shifter appears to be an oddity. The number on it is correct, but it doesn't have a hole in it like the others to line up neutral and the hole for the adjustment button isn't big enough. Do I just drill it out to fit the button? They also included and depict in the instructions the use of vinyl bushings on the shifter levers, but the holes in the two forward gear shift levers are only large enough for the buttons? Should they be drilled out to use the bushings or just don't use them? The reverse on the transmission seems to be in the wrong position - doesn't match the illustration in the instructions, but flipping the plate over seems to get the rod into the right area on the shifter lever - if the adjustment button fit the hole. You can see in the instructions the shift points on the transmission are all faced at the same angle but the picture of my transmission the reverse is pointed the wrong way?

It's really cool to see this little bit of the big picture but these eccentricities have me concerned I have the wrong kit. Or maybe 'adjusting' the kit to fit the application is common?

 

[kiwigtx]

As removed for a service a year or so back. Shifter block has just been disconnected in this picture;

 

[wasco]

That's a great reference picture! I guess I have it correct. Even looks like your reverse is like mine - faces forward instead of backward like the others. Cool!
My shifter has a hole for the 'stop bolt' on the forward side but no bolt - guess I'll need to get one in there.
Thanks very much! I feel a little better now although drilling out the hole in the reverse lever has me nervous, I guess that's the only solution.

 

[kiwigtx]

My shifter has a hole for the 'stop bolt' on the forward side but no bolt - guess I'll need to get one in there.

Remember it needs a back-nut to tighten the bolt once adjusted.

 

[Daves69]

............I feel a little better now although drilling out the hole in the reverse lever has me nervous, I guess that's the only solution.

That reverse lever is hardened I believe. Chuck it up in a drill press so it don't get away from you. Drilling I believe that is "a" solution although maybe not the "only". The hole size on it surely fit a swivel stud at one point in time. Maybe there's a smaller swivel available or the option to turn the larger stud down to fit.
Also, I prefer the steel bushings over the nylons.

 

[wasco]

I ordered up a set of the steel bushings and clips. Should I drill out the other levers as well so I can use the bushings? The nylon ones fit the shift arms at the transmission but not the shifter levers. I noticed the lock nut on the stop bolt in pictures of other shifters - but thanks for the reminder. Thank you!

 

[Daves69]

It's your call on opening up the holes for bushings. I tend to go by if it don't need it don't do it. My rod ends are snug enough in the tab bores without bushings. I probably won't wear the tab holes enough to warrant bushings with my level of usage. The swivel side, however, has the steel bushings except for the reverse rod. It's an A-body with a MG V-Gate.

 

[wasco]

Should the reverse spring in the shifter be so damn stiff? When I have the shifter bolted up to the transmission, 1-2 and 3-4 seem fine, but the handle doesn't go over far enough to engage reverse. I took the shifter body apart again and I can compress it with a pair of channel locks but just barely. The pin slips passed the notch on the reverse pin, pushing it to the side. Is this right?

 

[kiwigtx]

there's a whole host of video tutorials online to get some ideas and inspiration.....

 

[wasco]

Never mind - I looked around online and read you really need to 'slap' these shifters to the left to get reverse engaged. I put the shifter back together, bolted it up to the transmission and used a little more force. Works fine, I was just being too dainty!

 

[mopar 3 B]

Dainty and four speed don't go together. But if need be a longer handle does give more leverage.
I have found the stif reverse spring has kept many a butt heads from driving my car. What a blessing.

 

[wasco]

What's the deal with the shift plate nuts? My trans didn't come with any but nothing in my stash seems to fit. Looked online and they want seven bucks for three nuts? Are they anything other than just flanged nuts? What size/thread are they? I can hear giggles already.