Hydraulic Clutch Conversion 67 Coronet

[RebelautoengrLLC]

I tried to search for threads on this topic with no success. Has any one done this? I am conflicted about a 4 speed or a modern transmission. I would like to know the pros and cons, as well as the struggles. I can be oddly particular about maintaining the original aspect of the car, but at the same time have no problem about adding modern technology to it. Thanks for any info!

 

[69Runner]

Currently in the process of installing a 4 speed in my 67 Coronet. If I had to define my preference in one word, it would be SIMPLICITY. The car is a 500 with ps and pb, nice to have but I would have been happy without. The conversion has been done many times and it's low risk. With all that comes the trade-off, maybe the biggest being final ratio 1:1. Overdrive is nice on the highway. Of course I appreciate the handiwork of those who have swapped in 6-speeds or hydraulic clutches, they definitely have their benefits. With an hydraulic clutch you don't have to mess with the Z-bar ball stud bracket on the frame rail, and to some the installation is a piece of cake, but I lean towards simplicity in the final package.

 

[69Runner]

This is a good read, with pictures of course.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/american-powertrains-hydraulic-throwout-bearing-conversion-kit/

And Brewers takes a different approach with their kit:

http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=HYD&cat=289

Maybe you already found this:

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/hydraulic-clutch.68210/

 

[coloradodave]

I used this kit from American Powertrain on my A-833 4 speed. It works very well and made a lot more room for the headers after removing all of the mechanical linkage.: http://americanpowertrain.com/c-320496-hydraulic-clutch-systems-mopar.html

 

[TxDon]

Good topic. I can't be of any help but I'm subscribed...

 

[747mopar]

I did a thread on putting a Viper 6 speed in my Charger where I used a hydraulic clutch. It's a pretty simple setup using the factory pedal and clutch rod hole for mounting the master cylinder. Just have to play around with where you mount it to achieve the feel you want along with choosing the right master cylinder. I didn't buy one of those stupid expensive setups but just bought a nice Wilwood MC, a braided hose and used the original Viper throw out bearing. Works great with over 6,000 miles on it.

 

[RebelautoengrLLC]

So... it's been a very long time since I last posted. I figured after sorting life out, adding on to the home (2 yr long endeavor), and getting the little kiddos more independent, I finally needed to make time to get back here and work on my coronet. I have settled on going the stock route with the clutch linkage. Since I was robbed of experiencing these awesome cars when they first made their appearance, due to my young age, I wanted to have the feel of the real deal. I am going to put gear vendors on it. I would like to drive it longer distances around the state, so that would benefit me. Does anyone currently run gear vendors? Pros, cons, etc. I'm all ears!

 

[Mike67]

Haven't done a hydraulic conversion on a Mopar but did a McLeod conversion on a Nova, personally I like it better than the old set up...pedal pressure is even through the full stroke of the pedal...no initial " bump" to get over...

 

[65wgn440]

Good choice Rebel, IMHO ! Always nice to hear from someone that doesn't feel that they have to turn their "muscle car" into a late model creature comfort mobile. I am no factory stock purist by any stretch, but I don't believe every vehicle of this era has to have a 6speed trans, 4 wheel discs, fuel injection/late model powertrain, 18" wheels, etc, etc. Old **** is cool ! Seems just about EVERY GM built these days (a '55 Nomad and '57 hardtop right next door, a '71 Monte across street) has to have a LS swap. Sad. I have never had header interference problems with Z-bars on any of my cars. I do have a '55 Chevy with a hydraulic clutch set-up, but that was installed in the late 60's, early 70's when they put a straight axle on it and shoved the big block back about 15". I don't think you will encounter many cons on gear vendor swap on a B-body besides cost. Good luck !