I bought the book, hold my beer and watch this

[Robliepse]

Going to take one of the bucket list. There are very few bolts on a 1972 Roadrunner that I haven't touched with the exception of building a motor. A few months ago I picked up someone else's well documented 440 project and I've decided to do the work myself. I have the receipts from a local machine shop that references the following work.

DESCRIPTION of Block work
Vat block & knock in cam bearings & freeze plugs' BORE BLOCK & TQ. PLATE HONE, LINE HONE BLOCK, INSTALL DISTRIBUTOR BUSHING, REBUILD RODS (BIG END), CHECK & TOUCH UP RODS
INSTALL PISTONS ON RODS, CAM BEARINGS, FREEZE PLUGS, TOWER SHAFT BUSHING

Description of Head work
REBUILD & RESURFACE HEADS FOR V8 PAIR, INSTALL GUIDE (EACH) 4, INTAKE VALVE 8, EXHAUST VALVE 8, GUIDES 4, VALVES SPRING 16, EX. SEALS 8, INTAKE SEALS 8

To the best of my knowledge the block and heads are still at the factory compression and the original owner was building it for a Ramcharger project. I also have a new comp cam and stock valve train. I've talked to a very helpful local Mopar motor guy that I found through the North GA Mopar club and based on the information he provided the following.
The compression ratio will be approx 8.5 if the heads or block have not been cut. Resurfacing the heads usually only removes .002-.003 not enough the make a significant change in the normal 86-88cc combustion chamber. The compression height (CH) of the piston is 1.991 and it is a forged pure flat top with no valve reliefs. The cam is a standard Comp part listed as "Good torque and mileage, good RV and towing cam"
Using the Professional version of Comp Cams engine power simulator and all the specs you provided including the use of stock HP manifolds, Stock intake, Stock valve sizes, Stock carb (650 CFM assumption) the simulator predicts
305 HP @ 4000 RPM and 434 ftlb torque @ 3000

My GTX Front end alignment LOL (see my other post) , has consumed my budget and I've read a lot about heads, cams, exhaust etc and I'm not ready to go over board at this time. In addition to what mentioned above I've also collected a Performer RMP and a Weiland intake, updated orange ignition with upgraded distributor, a holly 650 and 750 carbs and a set of Headman Headers. Ill probably end up with a mismatched odd ball motor but I still have the original 440 and another 400 motor if things go terribly wrong.

Now for my simple question,
The motor did not include a windage tray or an oil pump or pick-up tube. I'm planning on using the stock oil pan and I was wondering what is recommended for this type of motor.

I've got a torque wrench, clean area, A Big Block Mopar Engine book from Don Taylor and I'm in no hurry.

Sorry about the long post

 

[AMX364]

I would CC the heads and block to measure the compression while you can. If 8.5-9.0 range and using the RV cam it will be all out by 4500 rpm and hard pressed to reach 5000 rpm. It will pull HARD at the low to mid range which is great for the street if using high way type gears. It will not be a drag engine. I also have that type cam in a 440 for a 65 Coronet with 727 and 2.70 gears for a DD type car. Use the stock type Hemi pan and pickup for your block with windage tray. The RPM intake might not be in the correct rpm range for your engine. It should or could run on regular pump gas 87 octane.

 

[Robliepse]

Thanks AMX, this is going to be a street car. I'm planing on really building one of my other motors for bigger power once I get the car back on the road and recover from my "front end alignment" LOL. Any recomendations on fuel pumps for this street motor? I'm thinking a stock one from the local parts store

 

[AMX364]

I like the carter street and strip M4862, not so keen on how the price has risen since the last one I bought. I also have started to run steel line from pump to filter to carb for less fire hazard later.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crt-m4862/overview/

 

[coloradodave]

Yes, a stock one from your local parts store will be fine for a stock build motor.