BB BELLA
Well-Known Member
maybe in your area ,you don't get power failures on city water, but I've found if pressure is lost ,when it comes back on they can blow apart!
How much pressure are you running?? All the packages say rated to something like 250psi!maybe in your area ,you don't get power failures on city water, but I've found if pressure is lost ,when it comes back on they can blow apart!
Then they're defective. I've removed them with the removal tool and they are TIGHT little f'ers.70psi, it's not the pressure I think when pressure drops the locks get loose
And here is that job, a spigot that has a crack where the washer meets, and its too deep to just grind the seat. When I tried to loosen it its a no go with everything else starting to flex, even if I try to stabilize it with a second wrench. So it gets an extra screw on valve.I’m not a fan of plumbing and need to get a pic of one job I have been putting off for years. I’ve always lived in old houses where the plumbing job is rarely as simple as it seems.
I kind of like electrical tho, I’m not licensed but have fixed/diagnosed problems right behind the guy with a license.
I have 42 cottages to maintain, nothing but sweat, pex , wirsbo. not a chance I'd trust a sharkbite,more so a sharkbite cap!Then they're defective. I've removed them with the removal tool and they are TIGHT little f'ers.
The hell you talking about? I'm out here in the sticks, man - we get power failures and such galore.maybe in your area ,you don't get power failures on city water, but I've found if pressure is lost ,when it comes back on they can blow apart!
Oh the humanity!Went to hook up the sink in my wife hair salon... The building owner said " I got a plumbing dude" That can handle it.
View attachment 1831799
Thanks, I thought about heating it but wasn't sure if it would take so much heat that it would travel to the adjacent solder joint and weaken it. I've done a fair bit of plumbing, and a lot of electrical soldering, but I don't think I've ever soldered plumbing and wasn't sure how much the heat travels.I love doing plumbing, I love correcting issues, I love soldering, but I’ve been a plumber since 1977.
Not discrediting Sharkbite but plumbers don’t use them much for various reasons.
In the above post #45,
-Shut the feed line off.
-Open the sillcock.
-Heat the **** out of the 3/4” brass at the nipple with a hand held Mapp gas torch and wrench off.
-Install a new $6.00 sillcock.
- Add a 3/4 code hose vacuum breaker
15 minute job
So basically blast the heat on the section in red?Always heat the fittings you want to solder or remove, never the pipe or the seam, solder follows heat, thus draws into a fitting where you want it.
If you only heat the brass shoulder of the brass sillcock you won’t melt the other solder joints
Hope that helps