• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

I hate plumbing

maybe in your area ,you don't get power failures on city water, but I've found if pressure is lost ,when it comes back on they can blow apart!
 
70psi, it's not the pressure I think when pressure drops the locks get loose
 
I’m not a fan of plumbing and need to get a pic of one job I have been putting off for years. I’ve always lived in old houses where the plumbing job is rarely as simple as it seems.

I kind of like electrical tho, I’m not licensed but have fixed/diagnosed problems right behind the guy with a license.
And here is that job, a spigot that has a crack where the washer meets, and its too deep to just grind the seat. When I tried to loosen it its a no go with everything else starting to flex, even if I try to stabilize it with a second wrench. So it gets an extra screw on valve.
20250405_124228.jpg

20250405_124156.jpg
 
maybe in your area ,you don't get power failures on city water, but I've found if pressure is lost ,when it comes back on they can blow apart!
The hell you talking about? I'm out here in the sticks, man - we get power failures and such galore.
 
I love doing plumbing, I love correcting issues, I love soldering, but I’ve been a plumber since 1977.
Not discrediting Sharkbite but plumbers don’t use them much for various reasons.
In the above post #45,
-Shut the feed line off.
-Open the sillcock.
-Heat the **** out of the 3/4” brass at the nipple with a hand held Mapp gas torch and wrench off.
-Install a new $6.00 sillcock.
- Add a 3/4 code hose vacuum breaker

15 minute job
 
I love doing plumbing, I love correcting issues, I love soldering, but I’ve been a plumber since 1977.
Not discrediting Sharkbite but plumbers don’t use them much for various reasons.
In the above post #45,
-Shut the feed line off.
-Open the sillcock.
-Heat the **** out of the 3/4” brass at the nipple with a hand held Mapp gas torch and wrench off.
-Install a new $6.00 sillcock.
- Add a 3/4 code hose vacuum breaker

15 minute job
Thanks, I thought about heating it but wasn't sure if it would take so much heat that it would travel to the adjacent solder joint and weaken it. I've done a fair bit of plumbing, and a lot of electrical soldering, but I don't think I've ever soldered plumbing and wasn't sure how much the heat travels.

Once when rotorooter was out to cut some roots (I have my own machine to do that now) I asked the guy how much to change the spigot and he said around $500. Hell no to that.
 
Always heat the fittings you want to solder or remove, never the pipe or the seam, solder follows heat, thus draws into a fitting where you want it.
If you only heat the brass shoulder of the brass sillcock you won’t melt the other solder joints
Hope that helps
 
Always heat the fittings you want to solder or remove, never the pipe or the seam, solder follows heat, thus draws into a fitting where you want it.
If you only heat the brass shoulder of the brass sillcock you won’t melt the other solder joints
Hope that helps
So basically blast the heat on the section in red?
20250405_124228.jpg
 
Not there, Take the ground strap off or push back towards house and heat the hub of the brass sillcock, it’s screwed onto a nipple
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top