Ignition upgrade question

[Sonny]

This is for my ‘70 Belvedere:
When the car was on points, the blue wire between the alt and voltage regulator went through the resistor on the fire wall (see first pic). I am upgrading to an electronic system and the wiring diagram (pic 2) doesn’t reference that blue wire. Just the dark blue “run position” wire. What happens to the blue wire that was on both sides of the resistor?

 

[Sonny]

View attachment 693036 View attachment 693037 This is for my ‘70 Belvedere:
When the car was on points, the blue wire between the alt and voltage regulator went through the resistor on the fire wall (see first pic). I am upgrading to an electronic system and the wiring diagram (pic 2) doesn’t reference that blue wire. Just the dark blue “run position” wire. What happens to the blue wire that was on both sides of the resistor?

After looking at the original wiring diagram, I see all the blue wires are spliced together. The new resistor wiring diagram shows all brown on one side and all blue on other. So just but splice the 2 blues together?

 

[66chargerpat]

Just hook the blue wire from the ecu to the blue wire on the resistor, Then place the black wire from the ecu to the neg. post on the coil.
Also make sure the ecu is grounded well.

 

[Sonny]

Just hook the blue wire from the ecu to the blue wire on the resistor, Then place the black wire from the ecu to the neg. post on the coil.

Thanks so attach both blue wires in the pic to the ecu blue wire?

Just hook the blue wire from the ecu to the blue wire on the resistor, Then place the black wire from the ecu to the neg. post on the coil.
Also make sure the ecu is grounded well.

Or leave the blue/brown on the other side of the resistor alone?

 

[66chargerpat]

Yes , leave the brown wire with the blue wire already attached alone.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

the confusion on this is maybe because most of diagrams are based on laters systems where the side with the brown wire at ballast got a dual brown wire instead the blue and brown. This began on 70 when elect regulator was standard equipment being the blue wire to the front of engine the one running to alt field now and the wire to coil changed to brown. The one to coil on pre 69 with mech regs is/was blue ( which is the blue spliced to the brown wire at ballast )

sounds clear ? LOL

 

[Sonny]

OK, so I’ve got it wired correctly. My ignition run wire has 12 V when the switch is in the run position, and none when off. The engine, distributor, and everything else grounds fine. Now when I crank the engine over, I have no spark and the voltage in my voltmeter goes to zero. Must be under that the dash. Any ideas where to start? All the harnesses and the ignition switch is all new as of about a year ago.

 

[Sonny]

OK, so I’ve got it wired correctly. My ignition run wire has 12 V when the switch is in the run position, and none when off. The engine, distributor, and everything else grounds fine. Now when I crank the engine over, I have no spark and the voltage in my voltmeter goes to zero. Must be under that the dash. Any ideas where to start? All the harnesses and the ignition switch is all new as of about a year ago.

Update. My battery is at 12.0v. Is that too low to create a spark? It’s turning over good but not strong. Is there a way to bypass the ign wire and start/run with the run ignition side long enough to break in my cam?

 

[Sonny]

So now the car starts and runs fine however after 10 min or so run time I’m getting a little smoke from inside steering column. I’ve got blue from ecu to “run” blue on one side of resistor, and old blue/brown (start) wire on other side. With ignition turned to on, not start, I get 12v on the blue side of resistor and about half that on the blue/brown wire on other side of resistor and the same in positive side of coil. That should be correct I think for “run”. Any ideas? See sketch attached.

Note this was a points 318 car and upgrading to electronic.