initial set for torsion bars.

[Encswsm]

OK I recently rebuilt my front end replaced all the bushings and installed a Borgeson Steering box on my 66 Charger. When I took the Torsion bars out I forgot to count how many turns it too get them loose. Does anyone have a good Idea as to where toset them to start off? I think I already turned the adjuster bolt 4 complete revolutions from first contact. Im just trying to get it into the ballpark so when I take it off of the lift it will be drivable.
Thanks

 

[R413]

What bars do you have? You gonna need a lot more than 4 turns. More like 20 turns starting out, clean and LUBE the threads, no paint!

Once you drive it it will settle down anyway so you will be back under fine tuning the height. Guaranteed!

Only turn the bolts with front tires off the ground.

Start with bolts turned just even with bottom of the lower control arm. They have different length bolts so this can vary depending what you have.

 

[Don Frelier]

I usually look at how far the bolt head extends below the lower control arm.
I only count turns when making small adjustments.
Try about a 1/8" - 1/4" of thread below the lower control arm for a start.
Set it down and jounce it up and down, roll it forward and backwards maybe 10 feet then check your ride height.
I've found that they will "settle" a bit a bit after driving a couple times.
*Also note that you shouldn't tighten up the strut rod bolts until it you get the ride height close and have the weight on the front end.

 

[RemCharger]

^^^ as well as the LCA pivot nuts

 

[Don Frelier]

^^^ as well as the LCA pivot nuts

Oops I was going to include those.
It's a Monday...

 

[Encswsm]

What bars do you have? You gonna need a lot more than 4 turns. More like 20 turns starting out, clean and LUBE the threads, no paint!

Once you drive it it will settle down anyway so you will be back under fine tuning the height. Guaranteed!

Only turn the bolts with front tires off the ground.

Start with bolts turned just even with bottom of the lower control arm. They have different length bolts so this can vary depending what you have.

have the stock bars. I will tighten them up more thanks

 

[BigFlo]

*Also note that you shouldn't tighten up the strut rod bolts until it you get the ride height close and have the weight on the front end.

Does that also mean if you are adjusting the ride height with the car on the ground, that you should loosen the strut bolts and the LCA pivot points? My manual does not say to do that.

 

[Don Frelier]

Does that also mean if you are adjusting the ride height with the car on the ground, that you should loosen the strut bolts and the LCA pivot points? My manual does not say to do that.

Not for small adjustment.
But you certainly don't want everything tight and then raise it by an1"

 

[gkent]

*Also note that you shouldn't tighten up the strut rod bolts until it you get the ride height close and have the weight on the front end.

You can tighten the strut nuts - the struts can and will pivot in the front mounts/bushings. But as mentioned you must leave the LCA pivot nuts loose. Tighten them snug then back off just enough for the washer to spin.

During assembly its wise to use grease or anti-sieze on all those sleeves and fasteners - those lock nuts can easily bugger up threads if they're assembled dry.

 

[Black_Sheep]

My adjusters are a little deeper than flush with the bottom of the LCA using HEMI bars, ride height is slightly lower than stock.

I like to take some of the weight off the suspension when doing the gross adjustment just to make it faster and easier. Final adjustment is done with the full weight on the suspension.