Installation of pilot bearing instead of bushing

[Longram330]

Hi
So I finally got around to installing my "Low mileage" gem of a Poly in my '63 Dodge equipped with the A-745 3 speed manual. The "New" Engine has a pilot bushing installed which I measured about three times prior to even lifting the engine off of it's cradle! Once we got it lined up with the Bell housing and input shaft it simply would not co-operate and slide home due to the pilot bushing. So....I was contemplating installing a pilot bearing anyhow, does anyone have a part number for the bearing? On some of the other threads I've seen a larger pilot bearing that fits into the Torque converter nose recess in the crank , is this what is being used normally ? or is the bearing of choice a direct replacement of the bushing ?
Another question...Has anyone ever installed the overdrive A-833 transmission in an early "B" body and if so what additional pieces would be required to pull that
off? Amazingly enough all these dumb questions come about due a serious lack of experience with manual transmissions ... I've always done Automatics !
Thanks in advance for cutting me some slack!
Please ignore the date on the pics I forgot to change the date on the camera!

 

[R/T Boy 67]

Are you sure it is not disc misalignment that is causing your problem? The bearing that fits in the torque converter pilot hole is what is most commonly done when going to a needle bearing. You would need a bell housing to fit an OD trans. Brewers performance is a good source for most of what you need.

 

[Charged440]

I had to ream out a bushing once after it was installed. I made sure it fit the input shaft beforehand and once it was seated in the crank it apparently shrunk down just enough to be a problem.

 

[4mulas]

mopar 4876056aa Mopar Performance Pilot Bearing

Mopar 53009180ab More Information for MOPAR 53009180AB

these are just a couple of the numbers Over the years. Mopar performance has one too. Just google it a bit and you can find them cheap. It’s inexpensive from Chrysler too.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Hold on....I've been there. Something isn't exactly straight...close maybe, but not exactly. It seems like a good idea to make 100% that the nose of the transmission fits inside the bushing if the trans is backed out. I'm not sure how you're installing the transmission, but it usually helps to get 2 long bolts the same size as the back of the bellhousing, install those, and use them to hold the weight of the transmission while you slide it forward & aggressively move it up/down side/side while shoving forward.

Make SURE the transmission is in neutral (the tailshaft can be turned by hand). The first thing to engage is the clutch splines. As you move the transmission forward, you should be able to "feel" when the trans starts to slip through the splines because you won't be able to turn the tailshaft by hand anymore (trans splines now entering the clutch disc splines). This is about 1"-2" out from the transmission fully seating on the bellhousing. At this point, move the transmission up/down & side/side VERY vigorously while shoving forward. It's not recommended.....but you can start to thread in some shorter transmission bolts and try to "pull in" the transmission...using shorter & shorter bolts. FYI- this can damage a pilot bushing/bearing if the alignment is way off. Also....as a LAST RESORT (I've done it once successfully)....if it won't go that last inch....have a buddy push down on the clutch pedal while you move the transmission up/down & side/side like crazy while shoving the transmission forward....the clutch disc will be floating free, but shouldn't drop if you got the splines of the transmission partially through the clutch splines.

As far as the pilot bearing....it's a similar situation except the bearing seats in the outer crank flange instead of down in the crank hole...and it's a bearing not a bushing, but same things apply. I believe they're factory stock on 80's pickup trucks with small blocks or something like that???

 

[tonysrt]

I use B engine head bolts with the head cutoff to align the transmission into the bellhousing, usually 2 is all you need. The OD trans has a big front bearing retainer, make sure it is the same size as the opening in the Bellhousing.

 

[Longram330]

Well, in thinking on saving some hassle and work , I got the idea of leaving the transmission and Bell housing in the car. I made a support fixture to hold the trans/Bell housing in place.
The old engine came out lickety split , The replacement engine , however, was not cooperative at all ... ended up with a final, distance between the engine and bell housing of about 1" when we called it quits. Thats when I decided on the bearing. I like the idea of the guide pins , I always used guide pins when I installed cast Iron Torque flites. Thanks for all the replies!