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Installing Hydraboost, Wilwood MC contacts shock stud?

funknut

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As I was fitting everything up I found that the Wilwood MC is contacting the shock shaft on the top of the shock tower. I'm using the Tallon Hydraulic booster with the Wilwood tandem master cyl. Below are some not-super-great photos, but give you an idea of what I'm looking at.

mc1.jpeg


mc2.jpeg


mc3.jpeg


I found some pics in keepat's thread and it doesn't look like mine is in a dramatically different location:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,110212.msg1489887.html#msg1489887

To others that have installed either the Tallon or Hydratech units, have you had any issues with this?

Thanks,

Clay
 
can you cut the stud just a enough to give you clearance
 
can you cut the stud just a enough to give you clearance

I thought of that and I could do that, but right now the MC is just loosely in place and I'm not sure how much lower it will droop once it's tightened into place.

Now that I think of it, I probably should have done that first. I'll remove the shock, tighten things up, and report back.

Thanks!
 
As I was fitting everything up I found that the Wilwood MC is contacting the shock shaft on the top of the shock tower. I'm using the Tallon Hydraulic booster with the Wilwood tandem master cyl. Below are some not-super-great photos, but give you an idea of what I'm looking at.

mc1.jpeg


mc2.jpeg


mc3.jpeg


I found some pics in keepat's thread and it doesn't look like mine is in a dramatically different location:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,110212.msg1489887.html#msg1489887

To others that have installed either the Tallon or Hydratech units, have you had any issues with this?

Thanks,

Clay
I also use hydro boost but my shock tops aren't where yours are. Before getting in a flap, you can see if rotating the unit 180 degrees makes any difference. This is possible with all base units and I have seen them at shows where the pressure can is on the bottom. All depends on where you want your hydraulic lines to be.
 
Thanks everyone for the input. I flipped the booster just to see what it would look like and I didn't gain any noticeable clearance. Maybe a hair or two difference, but I still would have needed to trim the stud.

I ended up taking off about 5-6 threads worth and I have everything tightened down without any contact. I estimate I have a bit over 1/16" gap now. I'll run it like this for now and check it again for contact after a few drives. I could take off a few more threads' worth if needed.
 
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