Installing line lock - adapter size ?

[Canadian1968]

i've decided I want to install a line lock kit for when I am at the track and doing my burnout.

I am going to install it online with rear brakes . So when I engage the line lock it will block fluid to the rear brakes but my front will still be controlled with pedal as normal .

Question is , since it's all hard line I can't really pinch the line during the install . What is the easiest method to disconnect line going to back with out making a huge mess. ?

There is already a joined connection half way down the side the drivers rocker that goes to the back. This is where I plan to plumb in the kit . Just un hook this and let it drain into a container ?

 

[65wgn440]

Maybe do a little more research first. You seem to have things backwards.

 

[Canadian1968]

Great vid but didn't answer my question . Thanks to movie magic they just unhook the brake line and there is no fluid .

 

[gkent]

So if you stop fluid to the rear brakes, that means you have to hold the brake pedal down with one foot and gas with the other. Fine if you have an automatic car. But if you have a stick car then that doesn't work and that's why most guys, stick or auto, install it to hold fluid in the front system. You depress the brake, engage the line loc and release the brake. Now your front brakes are locked and your left foot is free to work the clutch, pick your nose, whatever.

 

[Canadian1968]

Maybe do a little more research first. You seem to have things backwards.

I have done a lot of reading . You can hook it up a lot of ways .

You can hook it to the front . So you press the pedal then energize the solenoid. Now you release the foot from the pedal the front are still locked . Do burnout and then disengage the line loc.

But as the vid says it's has to go after the proportioning valve . Using it to block off the rear brakes is considerably less work instead of plugging one port on the block and rerouting both brakes to the solenoid

I'm simply using my foot instead of the button .

And yes was just questioning if there was any trick to draining fluid . I dont really want to drain the master dry . Then it has to be bleed again as well . That's all

 

[Canadian1968]

So if you stop fluid to the rear brakes, that means you have to hold the brake pedal down with one foot and gas with the other. Fine if you have an automatic car. But if you have a stick car then that doesn't work and that's why most guys, stick or auto, install it to hold fluid in the front system. You depress the brake, engage the line loc and release the brake. Now your front brakes are locked and your left foot is free to work the clutch, pick your nose, whatever.

Bingo thank you ! The car is an auto .

Then people are probably going to say well just do a brake stand then . Well I am simply looking at taking the abuse off of over powering the rear brakes.

And depending how you look at it my way is a bit safer actually . If the solenoid fails or doesn't hold enough pressure I am not going to send myself flying out of the box. My way I know my fronts area always engaged with my foot. The solenoid fails I simply end up doing a brake stand no harm done .

 

[Canadian1968]

Can someone verify what adaptor I need. It says it has a 1/8 npt ports .

So I need to get 1/8 npt to a 3/8 inverted flare ? That's what should be on my brake line correct ?

 

[bm02tj]

The rear line is likely 3/16 in and a line lock is to hold the brakes on
Best location would be front to do a burnout

 

[Frank Mopar]

If you open the lines you are going to have a mess.

If you open the line a push the brake pedal a little it will block off the ports and hold the fluid in the MC

 

[Canadian1968]

The rear line is likely 3/16 in and a line lock is to hold the brakes on
Best location would be front to do a burnout

right the line is 3/16 but I always get so messed up with the thread size and what not. I will just bring it into the auto parts store with me.... I'm sure he can punch it I to his computer to figure it out

 

[Canadian1968]

If you open the lines you are going to have a mess.

If you open the line a push the brake pedal a little it will block off the ports and hold the fluid in the MC

someone else mentioned this. So this will just push out what is in the line but hold what's in the MC

 

[65wgn440]

Ok, see what you are up to now, sorry. But I would think most automatic drag guys would just adjust down rear brakes a little, rather than go through everything you are to " take away abuse of overpowering rear brakes". Now, I'll have to apologize again if you tell me you have rear disc's !

 

[Frank Mopar]

I would put the line lock on the front and leave the rear brake adjustment alone. Front brake are activated and rear brakes are off. Not sure where the abuse part comes in.

You will abuse the rear more holding them on with the line lock. IMHO.

 

[Canadian1968]

I would put the line lock on the front and leave the rear brake adjustment alone. Front brake are activated and rear brakes are off. Not sure where the abuse part comes in.

You will abuse the rear more holding them on with the line lock. IMHO.

Hahah have to read the posts carefully ! What I am doing is simply putting a line lock inline with the REAR brakes, to hold them OFF . When I put my foot on the brake my front will work as normal but my the rear will not be powered . I can do my burnout and let off the brake and control as I feel fit. Just before staging I can turn off the line lock to allow my rear brakes to be powered again so i full breaking power at the end of the track .

YES I know and we'll aware , this is not text book installation but in my mind it will make me feel more comfortable with the car . At the end of the day both installations do the same thing , you are allowing the rear brakes to be free while you mash the gas to do your burnout. Except my way I am able to control the front brakes instead of an instant release !

 

[Canadian1968]

Well the install is complete . Everything went smooth no leaks at all. Got the correct 1/8 npt to 3/16 inverted flare fittings. Switched the lines around so that it holds the fluid OFF instead of ON . Took it for drive and it works perfect !

Really like how I can comy roll the front brakes with my foot .

 

[mike smock]

do you have any pictures of the install?

 

[Canadian1968]

do you have any pictures of the install?

No, but if I get a chance I will crawl under and take a pic for you. It's pretty straigt forward install this way. Line coming out of the proportioing valve for rear brakes goes to the OUT port on the solenoid then take your orginal line that was hooked up and just run it to the IN port of the solenoid .

Mounted it on the inside of the front rail. You can't see it at all from the engine bay.

The only thing you have to remember is to energieze the line loc FIRST. Then you can put your foot on the break and smokem'.

 

[Jonas Nordstrom]

But as the vid says it's has to go after the proportioning valve .

Just curious, why does it have to go after the prop valve?

 

[Canadian1968]

Just curious, why does it have to go after the prop valve?

I may not be 100% correct on this but the prop valve has alot of other things going on inside it. These kits are made for universal use as well. So could you use it on a b body mopar before the prop valve ? I have no idea but I am sure this may cause some other problems in other makes and models as well . Probably throw a lot of warning lights on i am sure .

ALSO on side note another benifit to my way of plumbing is that it keeps the brake lights on cause your foot actually still on the pedal . The other way as per some rules require extra wiring to make sure the brake lights on when the line loc is on.