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Interior paint

steve from staten island

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Is there a proper black for the interior? Is there a paint code from Mopar that specifies the proper paint for whatever is painted inside the car? Thanks
 
I just went through this, for the plastic parts I found SEM landau black to work well (goes on thin) and match about perfect, for the metal parts if you don't want to use the "expensive" sem paints (not just the cost of the paint, the scrub, pre prep, and adhesive promoter gets costly at around $16 a can and the paint is thin so you will use double the amount of cans. Rustolium hot rod black sold at home depot is about 98% a match to the sem, I can not tell the difference in color or sheen when put next to each other, and its under $6 can, and goes on really nice, its a newer line, but the depot has it, seems to stand up very well too. I did my dash frame, headliner moldings, glove box plate, etc with it and it worked awesome...
 
Short answer is yes there's a color code from mopar Google search is your friend
 
SEM Landau Black will work wonders on any black interior part. I have used in on Mopars, V.W's, Chevys, Jap imports, and more. Take it from a man that does interior work.
If your surface is cleaned and prepped properly, you don't need all that adhesion promoter crap that they will try to tell you, you need. Good Luck
 
SEM Landau Black will work wonders on any black interior part. I have used in on Mopars, V.W's, Chevys, Jap imports, and more. Take it from a man that does interior work.
If your surface is cleaned and prepped properly, you don't need all that adhesion promoter crap that they will try to tell you, you need. Good Luck

I figured you didn't "need" the promoter but I will say this, I learned to use it from a sem rep, and he showed me the steps to make stuff perfect, we did a set of lower dash trims...

-Started by cleaning them with Dawn and a firm scrub brush, 3x..
-Then used the SEM SOAP, first time with a scrub brush, 2nd and 3rd time with a grey scotch type pad.
-Rinse them well with hot water then dryed them well.
-Sprayed them with the SEM Plastic Prep and wiped them dry with a clean rag 2x.
-light coat of plastic prep
-wait a few minutes
-heavier coat of plastic prep
-wait about 7-10 minutes
-light coat of paint
-wait 2-3 minutes
-heavier coat of paint
-wait 5 minutes
-last coat of paint

he also showed me how to get a bit of texture, by putting the piec eon the ground and spraying down onto it from far away (a couple to few feet I would guess), it simulates a textured finish, only on the last coat.

It was a pretty cool lesson, and I have never had a problem with peeling, flaking, etc. He showed me a steering wheel in his van that he supposedly had 5 years and 80K miles on it, it still looked new...

I want to do something once, I would rather spend 3 times the money and 3 times the time doing it right and by the book, then half the money and half the time just to do it agian, and again, and again, etc..
 
Steve if your doing metal parts like my 67 Coronet then 2 part paint is a must. With Plastics it's a different world like these guys are saying.
 
I have posted the same thing with no reply I have a 67 GTX that i would like the interior paint code for black as well. I was going to use the exterior black code but it does not seem to have a full gloss above the doors and quarter trim the dash is altogether something different if you find a solution let me know I am still looking for an answer as well
 
I have posted the same thing with no reply I have a 67 GTX that i would like the interior paint code for black as well. I was going to use the exterior black code but it does not seem to have a full gloss above the doors and quarter trim the dash is altogether something different if you find a solution let me know I am still looking for an answer as well

See post #4, SEM Landau Black is what you need. It's not Rocket Science here!
 
which part are you refering to there are 2 different colors the dash is suede Herb's parts sells that in a can for the dash and column I just did my dash and it is a perfect match getting ready to do the column the tops of the doors and rear quarter trim is a basic black believe it or not all companies make it 9000 or 9300 is the code I will be using the basic enamel 9000 I do not want the base coat clear coat I think it will shine too much so I am going old school for the right look hope this helps you did not specify a year I am working on a 67 it may change as they get newer
 
I can tell you that rattle can enamel and basic non-automotive satin enamel paint does NOT work on a navy blue metal dash frame.
Even if you get the color right, it is soft and marks easily.
I used acrylic enamel PPG dark blue metallic with hardener of the correct vintage and exterior code for the car with good results. I'm not saying the exterior paint is what Chrysler used, but it makes sense that they might have done that.
I'm not sure about the original paint gloss since it may have dulled with age.
I think the new paint look good and is probably close.
I suspect that is what Chrysler used back then.
The only small thing was that PPG did not have acrylic enamel in the Chrysler color but a Ford color was a close match.
I could have used acrylic urethane ("2K") but I had acrylic reducer on the shelf and experience with that. (And it's not as toxic I read.
I think Sherwin Williams still has an acrylic auto line, but they are out of the way for me.
 
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