K-Frame surgery and updates

[ckessel]

I've finally been able to spend some time on my Coronet. I'm swapping in a 70 K-Frame to it so I can have the better idler arm mount, sway bar mount and engine setback. I started first on adding probably 4x the spot welds on the perimeter of the unit, added some under the idler arm bracket, reinforced the tar out of the control arm mount front and rear plus added in some structure to the strut rod mount area. I had noticed on my car plus another 65 K-Frame that there are cracks on the engine side of it above the strut mount as there is no structure for it in that area. Had to do some trimming of the new unit to clear the Indy motor in a couple of spots plus some grinding on the Shumacher mounts to clear the main cap bolts. Much easier to deal with this stuff on an engine stand first. I need to get the new TTI headers for it to continue the fit process as the ones on it won't clear the block due to the additional width of the block at the pan rail. When I get those I'll add the gusseting for the steering box and welded on mount bosses. I highly recommend using the Blair Rota-Broach for this stuff. Makes short work of punching holes. When I get a chance, I'll tally up the old spot welds and compare that to how many new ones are on it. Also, even though it had been hot tanked twice there was still grease and goo in the seams. Victor wrench to the rescue!

 

[furyus]

Nice work. Moving the engine back just by itself should help the handling. Been thinking about this for my Sport Fury.

 

[ckessel]

Had a chance today to count welds. Factory spot welds are at 35. I added on 102 rosette welds[ excuse me, no spot like I originally wrote]. Just the sound of it is totally different when it scrapes the ground. When I get the new headers, the top side of the K will get fitted and I'll add on gusseting around the steering box/engine mounts/idler arm mount/sway bar to frame mount and whatever else trips my trigger. My Lincoln electronic glue gun has been busy sticking stuff together. This is fun! So far it looks like I can leave the trans bell housing area on the firewall alone, but ultimately I will need to trial fit to verify. There are too many variables going on with the new K, Shumacher mounts etc. I've seen two other cars that have the 66- K swap that clear by finger distance but I have seen a 64 vert that had it right up against the firewall. Not what I want. I'm doing surgery anyway in the general area to fill in the a/c & heater plumbing holes as they are right in the center behind the engine. My a/c is inop anyhow so the oe unit is going bye-bye and will be replaced by a Vintage air [will have to come up with my own combo, no package] and all the plumbing will be run on the tire side of the fender through the firewall. Same goes with the electrical. One of the reasons I added material and welds to the strut rod area is that on my cars K, there is a crack on both sides in the outer frame skin topside. There was another 65 frame I had that had the same issue so I figured I would box it in, oe is just a u shaped piece going horizontal, with a top and bottom piece to tie it in with rosettes added to the unit topside[ see the three welds?] plus rosettes around the main hole to better attach the oe inner reinforcement[ 2 welds each oe] with up to 6 rosettes and a big flat washer welded on after.