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Kickdown TF727

Moparjack 489

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My kickdown lever on the 727 will not move to start position itself , I will say the half way you can bring The lever by hand in position and he stand , first you put him full forward and release him he will go back half way alone like „ spring loaded „ but not in start position .

Anyone know this issue ?

i have a Video too, but not know how I can post here

thanks in advance for any help

image.jpg
 
No issue at all. That’s why there is a return spring on the “Throttle Rod” according to 1970 Plymouth service manual page 21-28

584F1BC2-F68C-4858-B6B0-C8A7A1E9B11B.jpeg
 
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No issue at all. That’s why there is a return spring on the “Throttle Rod” according to 1970 Plymouth service manual page 21-28

View attachment 943033
Yes, thanks . But I don’t have this rod anymore because I have this lokar Bowden cable for the kick down, and If I deaccelrate this cable will not bring the lever full back in start position . But ok they kick down work and I only wonder when I check it on the transmission kick down lever that he not will go complete back alone if I don’t touch it .
 
You need a spring to pull it al the way forward. The Lokar stuff is sub par...
 
I was about to suggest throwing out the Lokar stuff for the genuine mopar pieces but a kickdown linkage kit can run up to $540 for a 440!

Question: are the kickdown linkages different between each engine?
 
Depends on the year. I sell used kits for $200.00 usd shipped in Canada or the lower 48. Kim

Is it a cosmetic thing, or are the linkages physically different? I ask because I've never been able to follow the service manual adjustment procedure and I always figured it had to do with my car originally having a 383 2 barrel in it instead of the 440 it has now...
 
You need a spring to pull it al the way forward. The Lokar stuff is sub par...

I was told that the return spring for the linkage is not required for it to work properly.
The spring mainly maintains tension to avoid a rattle in the linkage.
It does bring it all the way forward but that part of the linkage does not affect anything.

Only the last 1/2 - 1/3 of the lever on the transmission is spring loaded by the internal valve spring and this is the only part that affects throttle pressure.
The "dead" stroke does nothing.
 
Is it a cosmetic thing, or are the linkages physically different? I ask because I've never been able to follow the service manual adjustment procedure and I always figured it had to do with my car originally having a 383 2 barrel in it instead of the 440 it has now...
It's always been voodoo to me. I've seen single rod lick downs and three-piece units. The single rods all sort of have the same basic shape, but there's probably 10 different variations depending on year, engine size, body style, diameter of the muffler bearings, etc. lol

Sounds like Kim may be your best bet for shedding some light on this mystery and getting the correct one.
 
I was told that the return spring for the linkage is not required for it to work properly.
The spring mainly maintains tension to avoid a rattle in the linkage.
It does bring it all the way forward but that part of the linkage does not affect anything.

Only the last 1/2 - 1/3 of the lever on the transmission is spring loaded by the internal valve spring and this is the only part that affects throttle pressure.
The "dead" stroke does nothing.
Then u heard wrong. The tp valve is loose when u shut the car down. Once it is running the valve is moved over against the tp adjustable stop by fluid pressure. Otherwise there would be no need to to have the adjustment on the vb. Kim
 
I see what you mean, with the engine running, the valve will be pressurized and kept against the stopper.
But the linkage still has the same slack area, and only the last section is spring loaded.
Where is no spring tension the lever is not increasing pressure obviously.
I had set it before to match all the way forward but the tranny goes up in gears too fast and never downshifted.
So now i set it to start at the "spring area" and follow the throttle stud and made sure the throttle can still fully open.
Basicly, keep the carb throttle at WOT, push the throttle linkage all the way back till the end and adjust the adjuster with the slot to engage the throttle pin with just a little slack.
Still need to test drive it, but i am quite sure that now the upshifts will be delayed more and it will downshift when slowing down.
 
I was told that the return spring for the linkage is not required for it to work properly.
The spring mainly maintains tension to avoid a rattle in the linkage.
It does bring it all the way forward but that part of the linkage does not affect anything.

Only the last 1/2 - 1/3 of the lever on the transmission is spring loaded by the internal valve spring and this is the only part that affects throttle pressure.
The "dead" stroke does nothing.


Ok, thank you! That’s means I can let it like it is , right ? mit also work s properly . The only I mit can see about the oil pressure work. But you say it’s only in the spring loaded area , than all fine . My start to this conversation was just I not was sure
The "dead" stroke is on all TF 727 Kick down lever , or my one is not ok .
Because I also can not recheck by my self on my Charger transmission , because this one is a full manual valve body and don’t have anymore a lever for kickdown , because it’s manual .
Thank you all for you’re help and replies ! and by the way if I push the lever full in the spring load area , and let him release full and quickly , he jumps back to start position . Like full throttle , and after release gas pedal fully
 
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Just make sure that when the carb throttle is at WOT, the throttle pressure linkage is at max. setting as well.
The last part i don't understand, but make sure that when you release the throttle it fully returns to idle and the cable does not cause any bind.
Because otherwise you end up with a stuck throttle, and that is scary.
 
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