Kind of 'stock' 383 build questions?

[TorRed]

Hi All, I have been waiting to rebuild my 70 Roadrunner for so long I've now decided to keep it 'mostly' stock, at least as far as keeping the original 383 engine, 727 trans and 8.75 rear goes. I've already spent some serious money on performance parts, many I'll likely not use now (can you say lots of FBBO For Sale listings?). I would like to use my Lunati hydraulic roller cam if I can, with forged ICON domed pistons 9.6 compression with stock heads, stock HP exhaust manifolds, and TTI 2.5" H-pipe exhaust pipes. I'd like to push the HP & TQ numbers to 400 or a little better. I'll probably run an original DP4B intake like I did back in the day with a 750-800 cfm Carter or Edelbrock carburetor. First can I still run this cam:

20230712 Lunati Voodoo Retro Fit 3 Bolt Hydraulic Roller Camshaft BB Chrysler

Lunati's Voodoo Series deliver more area under the curve than any other series. This means more throttle response, quicker acceleration, more vacuum, and better efficiency. These factors, combined with max hp and torque, make Voodoo cams the best choice for a wide range of high-performance applications

This 1958+ Big Block Chrysler V8 361-440 is designed as a high performance street cam. Likes upgraded intake, carb, and exhaust. Needs 2800 RPM stall converter in most cases. Requires 9.5:1 compression for maximum performance

SPECIFICATIONS

Vehicle Make BB Chrysler, Chrysler
Camshaft Type Hydraulic Roller
RPM Range 2200 to 6200
Intake Lift 0.535
Exhaust Lift 0.550
Intake Duration at 50 231
Exhaust Duration at 50 239
Advertised Intake Duration 282
Advertised Exhaust Duration 290
Camshaft Series Voodoo
Valve Setting Hydraulic
Lobe Separation Angle 110

I've looked at a lot of stock stroke & similarly upgraded intakes and compression ratio builds online, and these specs aren't that far off from what I see others using. The Mopar 484 cam is very close, but has a 108 LSA vs my 110, and my cam has more lift and a little more duration. I'd like to stay with a hydraulic roller cam mostly for the oil issues / limitations. Thoughts?

Another area I'd like to tweak are the heads, definitely going to get them gone over with hardened valve seats but could use advice from others about what else to do to the heads? Port matching, bowl blending, bigger valves?

Finally. I have a tight 3000 stall convertor and 4.10 gears for the rear. I also have a Gear Vendors .78 overdrive that I was planning on using, but if the motor makes all it's power down low may go with 3.23 or 3.55 rear gears and possibly sell the overdrive.

Number one goal right now is to build a 'bullet proof' motor that's fun to drive, sometimes fast, but doesn't risk the stock driveline that's been in the car for 54 years.

I'm sure I'll have more questions, but would really appreciate advice from those who've done similar builds especially including what to do's and what not to do's.

Thanks in advance, Jim

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Those are not “stock parts”. If I was building a “cruiser”, I’d use a smaller cam and a 100-150hp shot of nitrous. Keep your 3.23 or 3.55 gears and drive it. I would just do some MINOR head work myself. But it’s your car

 

[TorRed]

Those are not “stock parts”. If I was building a “cruiser”, I’d use a smaller cam and a 100-150hp shot of nitrous. Keep your 3.23 or 3.55 gears and drive it. I would just do some MINOR head work myself. But it’s your car

To be fair the thread title is " Kind of 'stock' 383 build questions? " and I qualified the stock part with " I've now decided to keep it 'mostly' stock, at least as far as keeping the original 383 engine, 727 trans and 8.75 rear goes. " So I left open the possibility of internal upgrades that didn't require external changes like headers, etc. Thanks for the reply, all are appreciated.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

By the time and money you spend on rebuilding the heads you could get a set of Aluminum heads for about the same cost of rebuilding the 906's you have. There are options out there. Edelbrock heads, Trick Flow and there are Stealth heads which look kind of like stock heads but in aluminum.

 

[pnora]

Sounds like you are trying to build a motor around a cam you already have. That is not the way I would do it.

 

[Cranky]

Your 'domed' pistons must have a pretty small dome. I'm getting 10.3 with a 440 and the stock .050 down flat tops with steel shim head gaskets. And to me, that cam sounds a bit big but I like the 4.10's with the OD. I'm also with BBRR on going with the alloy heads instead of the stockers.

 

[R413]

Stock? LOL most of these build threads people build way to much for the intended use.

What is your intended use for this car? You didn't really say any specifics.
Parades, idling in Traffic?
Freeway driving? How far?
Local cruising around?
Any racing at the track?

Do you live in a big city with traffic?

 

[TorRed]

Stock? LOL most of these build threads people build way to much for the intended use.

What is your intended use for this car? You didn't really say any specifics.
Parades, idling in Traffic?
Freeway driving? How far?
Local cruising around?
Any racing at the track?

Do you live in a big city with traffic?

Cruising, regular car shows, stomping on it when I think it's safe to do so, definitely a lot of stop signs and lights around town but nothing like Atlanta where we're from, hard to say about the freeway driving, I'd probably drive 2-3 hours to go to a show in Tampa or Orlando but probably not much farther, definitely local cruising just driving around on a nice day, probably never take it to the track but if I did I'd only do it once to see how fast it is, The Villages is getting bigger every day so I'd say medium sized city now and who knows about the future.

Thanks, Jim

 

[TorRed]

By the time and money you spend on rebuilding the heads you could get a set of Aluminum heads for about the same cost of rebuilding the 906's you have. There are options out there. Edelbrock heads, Trick Flow and there are Stealth heads which look kind of like stock heads but in aluminum.

It's more to keep it as original as I'm willing to keep it. I want a little more performance over stock but keeping the majority of the engine in 'one piece' is what I'm after.

 

[TorRed]

Sounds like you are trying to build a motor around a cam you already have. That is not the way I would do it.

It probably does sound that way, but if I have to switch to a smaller cam I will

 

[TorRed]

Your 'domed' pistons must have a pretty small dome. I'm getting 10.3 with a 440 and the stock .050 down flat tops with steel shim head gaskets. And to me, that cam sounds a bit big but I like the 4.10's with the OD. I'm also with BBRR on going with the alloy heads instead of the stockers.

Got this off the ICON Forged Pistons website:

CHRYSLER 383–V8 DOME - 2V
4.250 3.380 9.980” 4032 PRF116-3
IC687 / KTD 6.358 1.912 1.094 x 3.000” .146" DOME -4.5cc 10.7 10.4 9.6 674/190 0.230 .218 / 2.300” .199 / 1.880”
OVERSIZES: .030 / .040 / .060
RING PACK: 2-1/16” / 1-3/16”
RINGS

Bad formatting, but the '9.6' above was under the 88 cc heads.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

I have a 69 440, stock bottom end with 440 source aluminum heads, lunati 703 voodoo cam, headers, factory electronic ignition, edelbrock performer intake, and edelbrock 800 cfm avs2. 3.55 gears and an od 4 speed.

The car is fantastic, It’ll cruise highways without breaking a sweat and get 15 + mpg. It’ll cruise around town like a Honda civic. It is a great, easy driver. BUT, when you want to do hot rod things, it’ll party!

There’s probably some difference between 383 and 440, manual and automatic, but hopefully this will get you in the ballpark

 

[R413]

440 is a big improvement over the "exactly the same" built 383

 

[Cranky]

Got this off the ICON Forged Pistons website:

CHRYSLER 383–V8 DOME - 2V
4.250 3.380 9.980” 4032 PRF116-3
IC687 / KTD 6.358 1.912 1.094 x 3.000” .146" DOME -4.5cc 10.7 10.4 9.6 674/190 0.230 .218 / 2.300” .199 / 1.880”
OVERSIZES: .030 / .040 / .060
RING PACK: 2-1/16” / 1-3/16”
RINGS

Bad formatting, but the '9.6' above was under the 88 cc heads.

You have to do your own math.....CC the heads and figure in the gasket thickness and the actual deck height of the pistons. 'Advertised' pistons are usually higher than what they produce but in this case, domed pistons sound low. Just never know if you don't do the actual measurements yourself.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

440 is a big improvement over the "exactly the same" built 383

Basically what I did is what it sounds like what he wants. I just have a 440, hence why I said there will be differences but hopefully it’ll get him in the ballpark.

All I’m saying is a good top end on a stock bottom end will get you daily driver capabilities and the ability to party when you want

 

[4speed68rt]

Do what Ma' Mopar did. Build it stock, with a 440 cam and cruise it. Other option is get a 440. Just get it running so you can enjoy it. They are alot more fun when you are driving them than when they are sitting waiting for all that high performance stuff to come together.

 

[496 polara]

What other parts do you already have that you were considering?

Based on what I am hearing from you I would recommend;
Better heads (if nothing else) ,One size smaller cam (maybe have Dwayne Porter do you a hydraulic roller designed for the exhaust manifolds), and 3.55 gears. Won't need quite as much converter but would probably work just fine.

Oh and pm me the for sale list first

 

[BSB67]

the 687 piston is probably as good as it gets for a 383. However, the devil is in the details for achieving a good compression ratio. Pay particular attention there.

The cam is good with headers. Not so good with manifolds. I recommend changing one of those two.

Finally, If you really care about performance in a 383, you need to think real hard about valve train stability. That cam will want go to 6700 in a 383. You leave a lot on the table if the hydraulic lifters give it up at 5800.

 

[Geoff 2]

You will need all of the 4.11 gears with that cam. The 383 has the highest rod/stroke ratio of ALL the popular big block engines, with the 440 right behind it.
In layman's terms it means it will be dog-gy at low rpms because it does not pull air well.
Below is a warning in the Erson cam catalog about excessive duration. The warning is ONLY in the BB Chrys section.

 

[HawkRod]

Some good information here - I'll add some additional things as well:

For ANY combination, an engine can run well or poorly based on the block. Chrysler machining wasn't the greatest. The decks of big blocks can be off as much as .017" or more. That's why, back in the day, there were engines that ran really well, and ones that seemed like dogs.

So, pay particular attention to the block. Make sure the line bore is around .0001 - .0002" above minimum spec and without taper. You want bearing crush, but also proper clearance for the crank to spin freely. Then make sure deck surfaces are checked and are all within .002" or less difference. You want to make sure you have even compression so each cylinder pulls the same. When your block is bored, make sure it is bored with a torque plate so you get nice round cylinders with the head bolted on. You'd be surprised how much these blocks flex.

When building the short block, make sure pistons are exactly where you expect them to be. Of course, make sure your reciprocating assembly is balanced. Finally for the short block, make sure whatever cam you choose has been degreed. I have seen lining up the dots make a cam as much as 10 degrees off.
All the above things are a pain in the ***. They take time to do, but assuming everything is OK can bite you in the arse later on.

Good luck with your build!