Lakewood Bellhousing - What should I Look Out For?

[padam]

Guys,
I would like to install a scattershield as part of my clutch and flywheel upgrade.

The car is a 73 Charger (original 318 auto) now 413 Engine, 23 spline 833 out of a 68 383 Charger.
It now has the factory 68 bellhousing, aftermarket 10.5" clutch and 130 tooth flywheel.

I want to install a Ram Long style (Ford) adjustable pressure plate and disc.
I would need a 143 inch flyweel.

The parts I am looking at are:
Lakewood 15335 bellhousing
Ram 1595 billet steel 143 tooth flywheel
Ram 435 11" Long style pressure plate
Ram 6124 6 paddle disk

My biggest concern is the bellhousing.
Any advice about installing one, or problems to look out for would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance!

 

[Fran Blacker]

Probably know this. Dial indicator like this helps. Tunnel may need some persuaion with a large hammer.

 

[pnora]

You will most likely find you will need offset dowels. I use these and find them very accommodating VS fixed drive in dowels. RobbMcPerformance Bellhousing Alignment Dowels

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Make sure the Lakewood has the block plate. I'd also say make sure it has the offset pin for a 10-1/2" clutch, but you don't need it with an 11" clutch

 

[padam]

Thanks for the link on the pins. I checked my factory bell before but didn’t have to move it.

I read through all the Lakewood threads I could find so I will be sure to get the alignment right.

 

[Daves69]

A new block saver plate should be ready for the 130 tooth FW. For the 143, it should have a knockout you'll need to remove. Save the knockout. You may at some point want to tack it back on.
Also realize the starter position is further out for the 143. This could have an effect on header clearance.

 

[padam]

Tunnel may need some persuaion with a large hammer.

Hammer is one tool I know how to use.

 

[4speed68rt]

Are you going drag racing? It sounds like you have a pretty good set up for street driving already. I think all of the 440s from your year came with the 10.5" clutch. Clutch and bellhousing changes are always a "can of worms" on these Mopars.

 

[padam]

Are you going drag racing? It sounds like you have a pretty good set up for street driving already. I think all of the 440s from your year came with the 10.5" clutch. Clutch and bellhousing changes are always a "can of worms" on these Mopars.

Yes for drag racing. 11” seems more common for race parts.

 

[Fran Blacker]

With the 130 tooth 10.5" flywheel you may need one of these. Not sure they make them anymore? When I needed one it was on back order. Made one, kit came in 3 months later. This holds lower starter hole.

 

[padam]

With the 130 tooth 10.5" flywheel you may need one of these. Not sure they make them anymore? When I needed one it was on back order. Made one, kit came in 3 months later. This holds lower starter hole.View attachment 1405076

I’m going to a 143 tooth flywheel so I won’t need it.
If anyone does, I believe Brewers is making them.

 

[ckessel]

Is it a safe assumption you are going to use a torque strap?

 

[padam]

Is it a safe assumption you are going to use a torque strap?

Yes I already have that.

 

[ckessel]

Awesome.

 

[Crackedback]

If you have the 4 speed stuff in the car already and are swapping to the lakewood make sure of the following. Happy with the clutch pedal feel and engagement with the stock bellhousing? If so, measure the distance from the flywheel face to clutch fork pivot bracket of your stock set up. Then test fit the lakewood and measure. Make sure the distance is the same to your pivot bracket.

I had one where the bracket on the lakewood was further from the flywheel and that caused issues with pedal feel and engagement. Only disengaged when all the way on floor and what seemed like maybe a 1/2" travel from floor, it was fully engaged. Fork was overcentered too far to hit diaphram/clutch PP arms correctly, not enough sweep.

Had to make a spacer for the pivot bracket.

 

[ckessel]

Something to check out before you get too far in. With the block plate and the scatter shield on, measure the depth to the flywheel flange of the crank. Compare that to a stock bell housing. The reason I mention this is because back in the mid 80's I got ahold of an Ansen unit plus a Lakewood one for my a-motor Duster. I used the Ansen because it was gold irridated. Big whoop. Turned out the Ansen unit was not as deep as a stock bell and gave me all sorts of fitment and clutch issues trying to make it work. Of course I was too dumb to just put the Lakewood one on.

 

[padam]

I sectioned the bottom part of the block plate.
Unfortunately, with the upper section on behind the flywheel I can’t install the starter.
I’m thinking of removing the area x-ed out in the photo. It doesn’t look necessary to me and the starter seems to sit in place better without it.

What do you guys think?

 

[Daves69]

11" 143 tooth FW
Found a "way back" picture if it helps. Getting in the correct holes was a little tricky as I recall....

 

[padam]

The saver plate and bell have the same holes, so I’m not sure the purpose it serves in that area.

 

[Daves69]

The saver moves the bell rearward in relation to the flywheel, doesn't it?