Maintenance literature recommendations?

[DynaBro]

I am looking for a book or manual, or even a good Youtube channel that covers all the basic maintenence procedures and schedules for these cars but addresses modern parts, lubricates, etc. now available so I can take very good car of my car. Preferably something that is written for idiots.

 

[Lefty71]

Your best bet is probably to get the original factory service manual for your given vehicle.....there is no better information, and you need it for a baseline if nothing else.
Anything you need to know as far as upgrade or modern (like lubes) is most certainly fodder for discussion right here. If you are talking "B" body, this site is the most comprehensive source of current infomation at present, due to the number of owners here of rare, original, restomod and raced "B"s that I have ever found.

 

[MarPar]

Your best bet is probably to get the original factory service manual for your given vehicle.....there is no better information, and you need it for a baseline if nothing else.
Anything you need to know as far as upgrade or modern (like lubes) is most certainly fodder for discussion right here. If you are talking "B" body, this site is the most comprehensive source of current infomation at present, due to the number of owners here of rare, original, restomod and raced "B"s that I have ever found.

 

[#41]

You asked for it! Available on Amazon:

 

[rickseeman]

I agree. It's free (depending on the year) and great reading.

 

[DeltaV]

Three Easy Pieces:

Original Factory Service Manual and Parts Catalog can be found on eBay or place a WTB ad on FBBO.

Reprints of the originals are available through vendors. You might find the manual and parts catalog on CD-ROM too. They will show up in a Google search.

 

[OKDart]

As mentioned the Factory Service Manual is best, but also check out the Chrysler Master Tech videos, very easy to understand. The books are good too. Scroll down on this link and you can browse by year or subject.
Chrysler Master Tech Service Conference Library – MyMopar

 

[451Mopar]

Checking this site is a good resource. One issue is the specified Oils and Gasoline are not common any more.
Many of these old vehicles have been modified to Electronic ignition, and hardened exhaust valve seats for unleaded fuel.
Modern low zddp engine oil can be an issue with flat tappet cams, but a few oil companies make high zddp oil for older cars, and then there are additives.
The Factory Service Manual (FSM) is one of the best places to start. The re-printed versions are around $50 for the book, and much less for PDF versions, but I prefer the books.

One tip, if it has an 8-3/4" rear axle, make sure to grease and adjust the axle wheel bearings. I think the rear wheel bearing maintenance get overlooked by many new to the hobby.

 

[DynaBro]

I have all that stuff. I guess what I'm hoping to find is a resource that mimics the sort of internet content we see now like, "Don't forget to do these 5 things" or "Simple mistakes every user makes" that I would not otherwise realize due to a lack of actual community. I have one single MOPAR friend, and he's my age. We don't have any access to old heads or other enthusiasts where the natural process of absorbing all the "common sense" stuff happens. And there is only one show a year here where MOPARs show up to actually meet people.

It's the stuff that does not occur to me to do that I need reminded of and introduced to doing. Figuring out how to do it is the easy part. I'll see some girl driving a car with bald tires and think, "Why hasn't anyone told her?" and don't want to be a version of that where somebody ends up saying, "How could you not know to do (thing)?"

I've restored a lot of classic British bikes, do all my own Harley work, had a couple classic Chevys and a Cadillac, lots of stuff on 00s era BMWs, and am always working on my stupid F150, but I want to be proactive and keep my SuperBee perfect and spare no expense in its care. I can do the work, I just don't always realize it's necessary.

 

[Davefinan]

Definitely the F S M.

 

[YY1]

"Motor's" is a great second choice and covers many makes and models.

WAY better than Chilton or the others.

 

[451Mopar]

Well, if you have questions, ask away.
Like I mentioned, most don't know the 8-3/4"' and Dana 60 wheel bearings need to be greased.
Originally, the pre-1971 cars have left hand wheel studs/lugnuts on the drivers side of the car.
Usually there are either in broken/poor condition or have been replaced with right hand threaded studs and lug nuts.
Just mentioning if your going to pull the drums/hubs/axles to grease the bearings and check the brakes.
Power steering can feel sloppy. you can adjust some slop out of the power steering box.
If the car still has the original exhaust manifolds, check the heat riser valve is not frozen. If stuck closed it will really heat up the intake manifold.
Check if the bulkhead wiring has been modified, and that the car still has the fuseible link. Usually cars this old have had the wiring messed with.
If an automatic, check the kickdown linkage is present and adjusted.
Usually if the car still has the original fuel tank and lines, they will be in pretty bad condition. Not unusual to have to replace them.
A new replacement fuel tank like the spectra premium cr9 is less than $200 ($167 on Amazon). They also sell an EFI version with intank walbro 225 lph pump, but I think it is around $500? Holley sells the Tanks Inc EFI fuel tanks for their sniper EFI conversions too.
Many of these cars have been converted to electric fuel pumps because they are not driven daily and it takes several cranks to get fuel to the carb when the car has been sitting a long time.
Electronic ignition is also a common update for those not wanting to maintain the points ignition system.
With a stock alternator, it is normal for the battery to be discharging at idle and the light to dim as the factory alternator does not output much power at idle, but once RPMs are increased the alternator should be charging the battery.
What else can be an issue:
Rust around the rear window, trunk floor and trunk extensions is common.
Water might leak past the wiper pivot(s) if the seals are bad.
If it has the original springs and torsen bars, the car will be sitting lower and the suspension will be real soft.
Some spray lithum on the door pivot pins and door lock, hood hinges, speedometer cable and accelerator cable.
Often the accelerator cable will be rusty and frayed on an original car this old, so check if it needs replaced.
On small block cars, the accelerator cable is usually too short when changing from a 2-bbl intake system to a 4-bbl intake and carb, and the linkage bracket will need modified to fit the new manifold (it's not as simple a swap as many make it sound.)

 

[DynaBro]

Well, if you have questions, ask away.
Like I mentioned, most don't know the 8-3/4"' and Dana 60 wheel bearings need to be greased.
Originally, the pre-1971 cars have left hand wheel studs/lugnuts on the drivers side of the car.
Usually there are either in broken/poor condition or have been replaced with right hand threaded studs and lug nuts.
Just mentioning if your going to pull the drums/hubs/axles to grease the bearings and check the brakes.
Power steering can feel sloppy. you can adjust some slop out of the power steering box.
If the car still has the original exhaust manifolds, check the heat riser valve is not frozen. If stuck closed it will really heat up the intake manifold.
Check if the bulkhead wiring has been modified, and that the car still has the fuseible link. Usually cars this old have had the wiring messed with.
If an automatic, check the kickdown linkage is present and adjusted.
Usually if the car still has the original fuel tank and lines, they will be in pretty bad condition. Not unusual to have to replace them.
A new replacement fuel tank like the spectra premium cr9 is less than $200 ($167 on Amazon). They also sell an EFI version with intank walbro 225 lph pump, but I think it is around $500? Holley sells the Tanks Inc EFI fuel tanks for their sniper EFI conversions too.
Many of these cars have been converted to electric fuel pumps because they are not driven daily and it takes several cranks to get fuel to the carb when the car has been sitting a long time.
Electronic ignition is also a common update for those not wanting to maintain the points ignition system.
With a stock alternator, it is normal for the battery to be discharging at idle and the light to dim as the factory alternator does not output much power at idle, but once RPMs are increased the alternator should be charging the battery.
What else can be an issue:
Rust around the rear window, trunk floor and trunk extensions is common.
Water might leak past the wiper pivot(s) if the seals are bad.
If it has the original springs and torsen bars, the car will be sitting lower and the suspension will be real soft.
Some spray lithum on the door pivot pins and door lock, hood hinges, speedometer cable and accelerator cable.
Often the accelerator cable will be rusty and frayed on an original car this old, so check if it needs replaced.
On small block cars, the accelerator cable is usually too short when changing from a 2-bbl intake system to a 4-bbl intake and carb, and the linkage bracket will need modified to fit the new manifold (it's not as simple a swap as many make it sound.)

That's great stuff! Thanks! I would have totally forgotten about the left hand lugs knowing me. I learned that, but I would certainly forget in the excitement of new wheels. Among other items.