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Making a 6 ft bed out of an 8 ft bed?

Donny

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North East San Antonio TX
Here's the deal; a customer has hired me to Media Blast his 65 Chevy Truck, but he could not finish taking it apart due to lack of tools. So, I took the bed, cab and engine off/out of the vehicle. Already blasted the frame, got a few areas on the frame that will need repairing. He hired me also to do the metal work after the blasting.

Here's the issue as I see it, and would like some feedback from you experts out there -- perhaps you have heard of what I'm attempting, or, know someone who has done this?

The 6 ft bed is the stock one, meaning his. However, when I ripped the wooden floor up, every support beam is rotted, the bed side inner wall is also rotted as is the removable wheelwells. It so happens my landlord has a 65 bed that is a TX vehicle he will sell for cheap, but, it's 8 ft long! I measured the front to rear distance from the wheelwell and each side is not the same as any part of the 8 ft bed. :angryfire:
However, all parts on the 8 ft are pristine, a little blasting and they are good to go!

I'm just wondering which way is the best way to go? Pull as much salvageable metal off the 8 ft bed, or, make the 8 ft bed a 6 ft bed? Each method has pros and cons. If I replace all the bad pieces, then, getting it all 'aligned' after is the challenge. If I make the 8 ft bed a 6 ft bed there is minimal parts removal (and the bed integrity remains) but the big thing will be cutting it fore and aft perfectly, then welding it up perfectly after, dressing the welds etc.

I'm inclined to pull the good parts off and replace onto the bad bed, and spend my time (and not make money) building a 'jig' dolly device specific to the bed whereas it remains solid as I work on it. The only draw-back is I won't make any $$ during the time I take to fabricate up something -- but, I don't care, as long as the customer has some time to take I will get it right for him. I also think this way will result in a few less hours of billable time to him if I do it this way.

If this thread generates any interest and good comments and suggestions, I will post pics up here of this bed and the bed in question.

Thanks!
 
Lots of work and looks like he does nice work! Not sure if I would have cut the frame an an angle tho. Not that there's anything wrong with that. I'd like to see what he used to cut the frame with.....I see a sawzall laying there but man, he must be good to cut such a straight line with it.
 
Looks like he did a very nice job and didn't shrink the crap out of the metal when he welded it back together. Very minimal fixturing too. Seems to me that would be a good way to go; just prep the parts really well before welding - no big gaps, etc... To cut it I would think using an abrasive cut off wheel will yield the straightest cut and the least amount of clean up. Just take it slow.
 
He made his whole truck shorter, in my case, it's just the bed that needs to be shortened. Gotta spend some time and measure measure and measure!
 
I have complete confidence in your work!
 
I live near lake tahoe...We have the infamous rubicon trail about 45 minutes away...Alot of people with toyota trucks will cut the bed like you are refering to...They even cut the rear frames to make the wheel base shorter too..You have the right idea..It,ll take alot of measuring before you cut...I,m leaving tomorrow for 4 days on the trail..too Many toys and not enough time...
Petty Blue 67 gtX
 
Started taking some measurements...
IMG-20110712-00339.jpg
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Gotta find the thinnest, best cutting discs out there! Any ideas how to set up a back stop device to 'guide' the cut off saw as I progress? I certainly don't want to do it freehand!
 
Just a thought, I'm not sure if I would go too thin on the discs because of flex. Maybe 1/16" thick and a fairly large diameter to help keep the line straight. How about an abrasive blade on a skill saw? To make a fence you can get some very strong magnets, like a couple of mag base indicator stands, and clamp a nice straight edge to them. A piece of extruded aluminum angle might make a good straight edge.
 
I got some discs yesterday, had to go to the steel store to get 'em, I have a Dewalt 7" grinder and got the special metal cutting discs for that style grinder. Also got a special aluminum cutting brace designed specifically to allow the tool to rest on, allowing a straight cut. Should go good, no room for error, it will be right on the first cut, measure measure and measure and prep prep prep!!!
 
With that setup you should be able to cut it with your eyes closed! Just make sure the guide is rigid so it doesn't move on you and it should work well. I'm rootin for ya!
 
Decided to take an alternate route to get to my goal. Instead of taking copious measurements, I decided to scrap the 6 ft bed, but cutting out the sides (think qtr skins) at the places it was welded together and assembled; thus getting a perfect template to overlay onto the 8ft bed. Both wheel wells are the same size/shape dimensions so I think the only issue will remain getting good straight lines and cuts and cutting in the right place(s). Here's a video of me today taking the last part of the bed apart, I tell you, rust from the north east is or should be a criminal act; holding the car makers responsible and municipalities too!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ay-T29ERmtg
 
When I get my step-side, I'll be coming to you for any bodywork.You obviously have a great feel for getting it right. Nice to see that kind of quality today.
 
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