Mechanical Voltage Regular/Solid State Regulator 69 Coronet R/T

[BB69R/T]

I purchased a Solid State Voltage Regulator from Year One (part #346) for my 69 R/T Coronet. I am currently using a grounded brush alternator, stock ignition, points, condenser, ignition coil. Has any one used or switched to this voltage regulator or solid state regulator? is it compatible with my current alternator? (in the past I have had good luck with Year One tech support, but not this time). I know that mopar switched to Solid State regulators in 70 using a different alternator types. My issue is inconsistant voltage after start up. I get a good 13 volts on start up, but after a few minutes voltage drops to under 12 at idle or driving down the road. Battery is not being fully charged. Last resort today is to try and adjust the current mechanical regulator. Any thoughts or expierences are greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

You should have 14+ volts at the battery while running. Is your battery ok?

 

[BB69R/T]

Yes, the battery is one year old. I had the ammeter replaced at the same time, and the entire charging system checked. I've gone thru 2 regulators at the fuseable link wire. Inferior parts may be the cause. the only other electrical demand I have added is an electric choke and oil pressure guage.

 

[RJRENTON]

I purchased a Solid State Voltage Regulator from Year One (part #346) for my 69 R/T Coronet. I am currently using a grounded brush alternator, stock ignition, points, condenser, ignition coil. Has any one used or switched to this voltage regulator or solid state regulator? is it compatible with my current alternator? (in the past I have had good luck with Year One tech support, but not this time). I know that mopar switched to Solid State regulators in 70 using a different alternator types. My issue is inconsistant voltage after start up. I get a good 13 volts on start up, but after a few minutes voltage drops to under 12 at idle or driving down the road. Battery is not being fully charged. Last resort today is to try and adjust the current mechanical regulator. Any thoughts or expierences are greatly appreciated. Thank you very much.

It's possible that your solid state voltage regulator replacement is defective. Internally but NOT adjustable, is a "voltage divider network" that looks at overall system voltage (14.5 volts nominal at the bfttery) and adjusts the alternator rotating field winding voltage. Are you sure that the voltage regulator's case is grounded? You could always try substituting the voltage regulator as a check......just a thought. Now be prepared to be barraged with different methods.....rewire the harness to bulk head terminal issues to installing a Postmaster alternator.......just my opinion of course.....
BOB RENTON

 

[AR67GTX]

Sounds like a definate outlier. Every solid state Mopar voltage regulator of that type that I’ve had put out over 15 volts, for which reason I switched to mechanical style. But if it’s falling to just above 12 volts, warm, I would expect it’s not working at all.

 

[BB69R/T]

It's possible that your solid state voltage regulator replacement is defective. Internally but NOT adjustable, is a "voltage divider network" that looks at overall system voltage (14.5 volts nominal at the bfttery) and adjusts the alternator rotating field winding voltage. Are you sure that the voltage regulator's case is grounded? You could always try substituting the voltage regulator as a check......just a thought. Now be prepared to be barraged with different methods.....rewire the harness to bulk head terminal issues to installing a Postmaster alternator.......just my opinion of course.....
BOB RENTON

Thank you. I still have the mechanical voltage regulator installed, and the case is is most definately grounded, I have checked that. I have not installed the Solid State regualtor yet. I adujsted the spring tension (down) on the mechanical regulator today, at Idle idle it was 14 volts, but at high rpms it jumped to over 16 volts so I shut it down. tomorrow I will try to readjust. although only after a few minutes of the motor running, the battery voltage with the motor off was 12. 5 volts, as compared to 11.93 when I checked the voltage before I began working.

 

[BB69R/T]

How do my numbers look? Within specs? So today I installed a solid state voltage regulator.
A. Start up; Pre test drive, Idle 900 rpm's
1. Voltage at battery 13.47
2. Voltage at alternator= 15.29
3. Voltage at connected volt meter inside car 14.05

B. Test Drive: 20 minutes. Outdoor Washington DC Temperature 98 degrees, Engine Temperature 195 degree
1. voltage =14.23 at 2300 rpm's. voltmeter connect inside car.
2. ammeter guage. red needle was 1 needle width to the left of "C"

C. Post Drive: Engine at Idle, 900 rpm's
1. Voltage at idle, connected voltmeter inside car, 900 rpm's = 14.03
2. Voltage at battery = 13.67
3. Voltage at alternator= 15.19
4. Battery Voltage engine off = 12.61

I Hope this helps those who have had the same under/overcharging voltage regulator problem's I have had.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

1. Voltage at battery 13.47
2. Voltage at alternator= 15.29

2. Voltage at battery = 13.67
3. Voltage at alternator= 15.19

This jumps out, too much voltage drop in the charge path (1.5+ volts). Check and correct all disconnects in the charge path for high resistance. i.e. bulkhead connectors, ammeter terminals, and related wiring.

 

[BB69R/T]

After some diagonsistic testing, I found a voltage drop on the positive side from the alternator post to the + post of the battery. I started tracing the + side of the system. first junction I came to was the starter relay. The connection was loose, poor ground I assume, I cleaned the mating surfaces, used tooth lock washers on both sides of stud. now my numbers are good, charging system working.. as they say.. "check the ground"

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

After some diagonsistic testing, I found a voltage drop on the positive side from the alternator post to the + post of the battery. I started tracing the + side of the system. first junction I came to was the starter relay. The connection was loose, poor ground I assume, I cleaned the mating surfaces, used tooth lock washers on both sides of stud. now my numbers are good, charging system working.. as they say.. "check the ground"

Starter relay ground? If you are talking about the relay battery stud terminal, that’s not a ground. High voltage drop on the positive side of the charge circuit would not involve any grounding. If the stub nut on that relay battery terminal was loose, there will be resistance that would cause the described voltage drop, nothing to do with any grounding however.