68 440+6 R/T
Active Member
does anyone know a way to mount the seat belts in a different area since the mini tubs have eliminated the factory location.
mini tub seat belt mount relocating
- Thread starter 68 440+6 R/T
- Start date
Fabricate a plate, similar to the OEM reinforcement plate and weld it in a new location. Weld on a new nut before mounting the plate.
Mike
6PKRTSE
Well-Known Member
I just cut the factory mounting plate out of the section I removed. Drilled a new hole & rewelded them in more inboard.
That's what I did too. Cut the spot welds out then welded on using the same holes. Looks original when done.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
As mentioned, you either re-use the originals or make new ones. I chose to make new ones since the front half of the floor was replaced plus I wanted a much larger attachment footprint. Looking at my old ones, I may be able to use them on my wagon when I put 3 point units in down the road.
The OP is asking about the BACK seat mounts !!
ckessel
Well-Known Member
I would imagine the same principle would apply.
Except you have so much overkill there its crazy. Do you honestly think you'd pull those plates through the floor. Hell you'd be dead from the strain on your body first !! Besides, the bolts are in "shear" and would be the first to go - not that they would.
68 440+6 R/T
Active Member
This area is not an issue with my car, the same concept can apply but where could you possibly mount it in the rear since the original mount has been eliminated.
You move those mounts inboard further. They are then inboard of the frame rails but at least they're there.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Have any pictures of the area in question?
68 440+6 R/T
Active Member
The factory seat belt location is circled in the picture with the floor pan the other one is a picture of inside the wheel tub. It has AMD mini tubs in it and that hole that is circled is now nonexistent.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Ok. I see it with what looks like spot welds, floor to the rail, in line with it plus more welds towards the center of the car about 3" or so away from the outer ones. Maybe you could this: form up a piece of 1/8"x 3.5/4" material that follows the rail contour. Maybe make it 6" long, hole in the center with a 7/16 fine lock nut welded on the back side of the strap, trim the long edges down to match the width of the rail, drill some 5/16" holes about a 1/4" in from the edge like an inch apart so this piece can get welded to the flanged edges of the rail, mark out on that area of the floor that would be just in from the old hole, cut that portion of the floor out, place the piece on the rail, weld it to the rail using the 5/16" holes, weld the cut edge of the floor to the new piece so the floor is re-attatched. If your rails are like mine, its 14ga material so its nice and thick as opposed to the floor which if its like mine is only 20ga. On the units I made for my 65, I used some 12ga cold rolled material, it's what I had in stock[ .105 thick]. 10ga is .125, didn't have any plus I didn't want to buy any, just use what was handy. The 1/8 hot rolled material can be had easily enough at hardware stores or metal suppliers in small quantities, cold rolled is in sheets. Maybe others will chime in with more ideas.
Last edited:
Similar threads
