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More HP/TQ out of stock appearing 383

Have to agree with the above.. if you're already wiling to go ; stroker, aluminum heads, aluminum intake, etc, there's no reason on earth to cling to the original 383 block.
Go 400
And that's why I know I don't need to go Hog Wild with the 383 and am looking at a Middle Of The Road path. Doesn't have to be the top HP/TQ, just hoping for a little more than stock while keeping the main parts of the motor together with the rest of the car.
 
What lobe separation on the cam? Find a 400 block and store the original if you are worried about messing it up.

The manifolds make it harder to make good HP so build for torque. A 3.75 stroke with the 383 or a 3.91 stroke for a 400 block will work very well and not be as short on rpm as a 4.25 stroke with your cam.

Miles ahead with the aluminum heads if the budget allows.

If you haven't bought the GV spend that money on some 3.55/3.23 gears and the converter.
10 degree lobe separation on the cam, appreciate the advice on the cam. Would be willing to buy more cam if I went with the 4.25 stroke. Thanks
 
110 degree lobe separation on the cam, appreciate the advice on the cam. Would be willing to buy more cam if I went with the 4.25 stroke. Thanks

Fixed
 
Never have been a big fan of really long stroke engines unless they have light pistons and really good rods....but have been a fan of the 451 engines which is a 400 with a 440 crank. Long stroke engines also increase piston speeds. Really short stroke engines (think 327 Chevy or a 340 Mopar) can be spooled up and still make good torque but it will usually be at a different rpm. Short stroke engines can move a lot of air and fuel and that's what makes the power. Weight of the car is another factor. I liked to make my cars light when I was bracket racing but not too light. Side wind can play havoc with a car that's really light but it takes more power to move a heavy car and makes the drive train work harder which equals faster wear.
 
That is a Lunati Voodoo HR cam. It really has to much overlap to run well with HP manifolds with the smaller cube variations. It would run ok, but the bigger engines would work better. It would work best with the HP manifolds and bigger cubes, like a 3.91” or 4.25” stroke (it is a small torquey cam in a 4.25” combo),just don’t get carried away with compression even with aluminum heads. With aluminum heads 10:1 is the most I would want to go with that cam and HP manifolds and larger cubes, mid 9s with irons heads.

The long stroker provides more average power where the car runs most of the time, especially when the engine is bottled up with EXH manifolds.
 
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Has original 383 motor so that's part of the decision process.

440Source makes two kits for 383's, a 3.75 and a 4.25 stroker. More than a little concerned about the longer stroke, but their pistons on the 3.75 stroke won't work with the stock 88 cc heads, not enough compression.
With 6.7” rods you can run 3.91” stroke with those 3.75 stroke pistons or Diamond 51950’s. 451 cubes, At 498g, almost 300 grams lighter than stock 383 pistons. Pushing 11:1 with 84cc stealth heads.

IMG_0422.jpeg
 
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That is a Lunati Voodoo HR cam. It really has to much overlap to run well with HP manifolds with the smaller cube variations. It would run ok, but the bigger engines would work better. It would work best with the HP manifolds and bigger cubes, like a 3.91” or 4.25” stroke (it is a small torquey cam in a 4.25” combo),just don’t get carried away with compression even with aluminum heads. With aluminum heads 10:1 is the most I would want to go with that cam and HP manifolds and larger cubes, mid 9s with irons heads.

The long stroker provides more average power where the car runs most of the time, especially when the engine is bottled up with EXH manifolds.
Thanks for the info, I think at this point I'm either going to have to go headers or switch cams because I'd rather keep the stroke reasonably on the small side, just personal preference.
 
Never have been a big fan of realy long stroke engines unless they have light pistons and really good rods....but have been a fan of the 451 engines which is a 400 with a 440 crank. Long stroke engines also increase piston speeds. Really short stroke engines (think 327 Chevy or a 340 Mopar) can be spooled up and still make good torque but it will usually be at a different rpm. Short stroke engines can move a lot of air and fuel and that's what makes the power. Weight of the car is another factor. I liked to make my cars light when I was bracket racing but not too light. Side wind can play havoc with a car that's really light but it takes more power to move a heavy car and makes the drive train work harder which equals faster wear.
I'm more comfortable with the shorter stroker cranks, too. 3.75 or 3.91 is the longest I'd like to go with this numbers matching block. I know a lot of people say I should just pull it and find a 400 or 440 block, but for me that's not the plan. Maybe I'll just put pistons in it and run either manifolds or headers like its had since I bought it in 74.
 
I too love to keep the original engine.......in the corner of the shop! Then get another disguise and use it like you would be afraid to with the important one.
That was my thinking when I built this 383/451. I just used another 68 block I had out in my shed so the numbers matching motor could be displayed in the corner of my garage. If the 451 blows up, I’m out a several grand but the numbers motor is preserved. Visually the 451 looks bone stock. Has Dwayne Porter prepped stealths and his cam profile spec’d for running with factory HP exhaust manifolds. Intake is a performer RPM painted turquoise.
 
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