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More Power Means More Chassis...But How Much Chassis?

Belle66

Belle66

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First, if any of y'all know of threads for this please let me know. I've searched and found nothing, but could be I'm using the wrong keywords.

I've got a stock 66 belvedere with a poly 318. Am now considering stroking a poly to about 400 cu. in. It should produce 420 HP and 460 Torque. It is recommended to run with 3.55 or higher gear, 2500 stall & 275, 60-15 drag radials.

With all of that I wonder what needs to be done to the chassis. I reckon sub frame connectors are essential. But what else? 4-link? etc.

Right now, this is a pricing exercise to decide how much it would all cost and if I've got that much in the budget over the next few years.

Thanks!
Joel
 
sub-frame connectors and good leaf-springs and shocks, should do it for ya. You probably don't need any chassis work, but upgrade the rear suspension a bit.
 
Wow thanks! Forgot to mention, I've got a 742 case for the diff. Think that's enough?
 
Even a 741 will do the job. The 66-67 B's don't have very big wheel wells so you might think about mini tubs and moving the springs in. That will get you another couple of inches. Cal-Trac bars shouldn't be needed and are pretty expensive at that. I've had pretty good luck stacking my own leaf springs without having to use a pinion snubber. Are you going to put the car on a diet? I got my 66 /6 car down to 2950 with the factory AC still on it....
 
What you're gonna do with the car, should determine your mods. Very little NEEDS to be done at that power level, and wisely chosen parts will make it work fine.
 
Cranky, how did you manage that much reduction in weight?

Very good point mmissle. The car will always be a daily driver. I will also drive 60 miles to a dragstrip & run Street 'n Strip, maybe Modified. That is a step up from street and has payouts. Same as I'm doing now.
 
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Belle66 said:
Cranky, how did you manage that much reduction in weight?

Very good point mmissle. The car will always be a daily driver. I will also drive 60 miles to a dragstrip & run Street 'n Strip, maybe Modified. That is a step up from street and has payouts. Same as I'm doing now.
Click to expand...
The car was 3370 when I got it...glass hood, mid 50's style no front bumper (but a glass bumper won't add much), removed back seat and messed up factory rubber floor mats, rear window mechanisms and cranks and worked on various areas with a hole punch mainly in the doors so far. Just the undercoating was close to 50 lbs. I might start a thread of some of the mods I made to it with pics. I've since modified the K frame by trimming the spot weld flange and solid welding it. I have a big block on the stand and aluminum heads, water pump & housing and will probably go with elephant ears for the mounts. I also have an aluminum case Jerico 4 speed that's several pounds lighter than the 833.
 
I agree 100% with mmissile.
My GTX made about 400 hp to the wheels.
Weak stock leaf springs (bent in the wrong direction)
Good adjustable front and rear shocks.
Subframe connectors.
275/60/15 MT radials
The car hooked well and drove it all over the place.
No need to go crazy with the chassis unless your doubling your hp and making a dedicated track car.
Just my experience.
 
Here's some work I've done on a door and K frames....

 
CRANKY...KEEP THE CARDS AND LETTERS (AND PIX) COMING ON HOW YOU LIGHTENED YOUR CAR.....I WANT TO DO EVERYTHING YOU DID...CHEAPER THAN HORSEPOWER....KEEP UP THE INFO...THANKS FROM ALL OF US.
ps: Did you use a hole saw on the doors or some sort of punch.???
 
Mike Gaines said:
CRANKY...KEEP THE CARDS AND LETTERS (AND PIX) COMING ON HOW YOU LIGHTENED YOUR CAR.....I WANT TO DO EVERYTHING YOU DID...CHEAPER THAN HORSEPOWER....KEEP UP THE INFO...THANKS FROM ALL OF US.
ps: Did you use a hole saw on the doors or some sort of punch.???
Click to expand...
I used a Greenlee hole punch set like this one... https://www.zoro.com/greenlee-hole-...gclid=CMzR7buytM4CFQ8vaQodi9cKKQ&gclsrc=aw.ds
I also use light weight fasteners where ever a low grade fastener will work and cut off the excess of all steel fasteners or use shorter ones. Nylon screws hold on the fenders just fine especially fiberglass ones.
 
I agree at that hp level you dont need to do much. Frame connectors for sure. Myself I only have frame connectors and a 6 point rollbar which the bar stiffened my car the most. Just SS springs and longer standard rear shocks. I did add 90/10 shocks up front as they are the only adjustable shocks I use and they have 3 adjustments. Mine is also a street car and it hooks fine like this on Hoosier 30 x 9 radial slicks. You really dont need to do alot at the HP level you plan to be at. Good luck , Ron
 
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Here's my new street car, lol....
49403E7B-7F75-4C2F-BB4F-C684341C9DC8_zpsp2x6qrvg.jpg
 
Looks like your a great learner/student...LOL

I've seen experienced fabricators, NOT do as nice of a job...
2 thumbs up, from the peanut gallery...
 
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