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Mystery part, ERP valve?

Mheiron

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So I’m in Deep on my dash project! Goal is new wiring harness, gauges and AC box. Plus a new brake booster while I’m at it.

Quick question, is this valve required somewhere? I didn’t find one in the original system. If so, where is it located? I bought a NOS piece but have no idea if it’s correct.

Thanks as always for the guidance! Couldn’t get anything done without the forum!

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It goes in the suction port of the A/C compressor... It controls the evaporator pressure.... The Expansion valve controls how much freon goes in, the EPR controls how much flows out...
 
So I’m in Deep on my dash project! Goal is new wiring harness, gauges and AC box. Plus a new brake booster while I’m at it.

Quick question, is this valve required somewhere? I didn’t find one in the original system. If so, where is it located? I bought a NOS piece but have no idea if it’s correct.

Thanks as always for the guidance! Couldn’t get anything done without the forum!

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Depends on if you're using the original V2 compressor using R12 refrigerant, then the EPR valveis needed. It controls the suction pressure to a constant value, independent on compressor RPM. If converting using a V2 compressor and R134A refrigerant, remove the EPR valve and then use new thermostatic expansion valve (TXV) compatible with R134A, as R134A has a different specific heat. value than R12 and SHOULD perform better with R134A. Just my opinion.......
BOB RENTON
 
Depends on if you're using the original V2 compressor using R12 refrigerant, then the EPR valveis needed. It controls the suction pressure to a constant value, independent on compressor RPM. If converting using a V2 compressor and R134A refrigerant, remove the EPR valve and then use new thermostatic expansion valve (TXV) compatible with R134A, as R134A has a different specific heat. value than R12 and SHOULD perform better with R134A. Just my opinion.......
BOB RENTON

This, you'll also need to add a thermostatic switch to the evaporator to cut the compressor off so the evap doesn't freeze.
 
This, you'll also need to add a thermostatic switch to the evaporator to cut the compressor off so the evap doesn't freeze.
MOST...but not all older GM systems used the CCOT (Cycling Clutch Orifice Tube) refrigerant control (he orifice tube replaced the TXV) and cycled the compressor Clutch on PRESSURE exiting the evaporator to prevent freezing. Approximately 28 psi off / 38 psi on, or any average of 34 psi using R12 refrigerant to equate ~ 34°F evaporator super heat outlet temp ....depending on air inlet temps and compressor RPMs. Systems changed throughout the years...some used variable displacement V5 Axial flow compressors......each manufacturer had different philosophies........
BOB RENTON
 
The car is a ‘69 Charger with factory air which I’m trying to get going again. The car came to me with the AC equipment in the trunk.
I had the compressor rebuilt to run R 134 refrigerant. I had the evaporator rebuilt at classic air and a new condensor.
Any more details on the thermostatic switch and valve would be appreciated.
Thanks for the help.
 
I bought a standard exp valve from CI but it doesn’t mention anything about R134 compatibility. How do you determine ok or not?
 
The car is a ‘69 Charger with factory air which I’m trying to get going again. The car came to me with the AC equipment in the trunk.
I had the compressor rebuilt to run R 134 refrigerant. I had the evaporator rebuilt at classic air and a new condensor.
Any more details on the thermostatic switch and valve would be appreciated.
Thanks for the help.
I found a adjustable thermostatic switch for my converted 65 Dodge, I believe on the 4 Seasons product online catalog. Just wrapped the capillary tube around the suction tube leaving the evaporator, insulated with sticky A/C tape. Use to cycle the A/C clutch and control evaporator temperature (prevent freezing).
Mike
 
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