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Need Advice On a Power Steering Problem With A 70 RR

soundhd

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Have a recently purchased 70 RR. Has power steering. When I bought the car last fall installed a new power steering pump (saginaw), power steering gear box, and both hoses then had the front end aligned.
Here is the problem (and it happens a lot) when either trying to pull out of or into a parking spot when I try to turn the steering wheel to the left after about one-eighth of a turn the steering wheel stops and tries to "bounce" back to the right (not sure how to explain it with a technical term). Really have to force the wheel to turn to be able to get out. Now it does not happen every time but a lot. If I pull the car straight out of a parking spot then turn the wheel it does not happen (that I can recall anyway).
Never happens when driving and only happens when trying to turn the wheel to the left....never to the right.....
Was suggested that I pull out and clean the pressure relief valve which I did yesterday but did not correct the problem.
Was wondering if anyone else has had this problem in the past and what was done to correct it...

thanks
 
Put the front up in the air, center the wheel with the engine running. Give it gas, see if it tries to go right or left. If it even winks, you need to move the valve on on the box.
If it is ok, start looking for anything that is binding. Try it both while running and off..if none of that works, disconnect the column and drag link, and check the box for binds.
 
Not sure what you mean by "Move the valve on the box" or "check the box for binds"? Can you explain a little more?

thanks


Put the front up in the air, center the wheel with the engine running. Give it gas, see if it tries to go right or left. If it even winks, you need to move the valve on on the box.
If it is ok, start looking for anything that is binding. Try it both while running and off..if none of that works, disconnect the column and drag link, and check the box for binds.
 
Ok, the valve on the box is the steering valve body. Where the lines go into the box, there are 2 bolts. If the wheel winks, slightly loosen the bolts, tap the valve body up or down to compensate.
As for box binds, I wouldn't worry about that until checking the above, and also checking backlash on the sector shaft. That's the nut on the gearbox. Its in the field service manual.
 
I guess I am felling really stupid here but can you explain "tap the valve body up or down".....do not really understand.....again sorry for the questions........tap to me means to hit the valve body lightly with a light hammer or something like it........if correct still do not understand the up and down part....

thanks


Ok, the valve on the box is the steering valve body. Where the lines go into the box, there are 2 bolts. If the wheel winks, slightly loosen the bolts, tap the valve body up or down to compensate.
As for box binds, I wouldn't worry about that until checking the above, and also checking backlash on the sector shaft. That's the nut on the gearbox. Its in the field service manual.
 
Don't feel stupid, it is just like you thought, tap...and the valve will go either up (toward the column itself) or down (towards the k member). Has to be done with front end in air and engine running.
 
tap the valve body forward or backwards...towards front or towards rear. and use a mallet. loosen the bolts enough so it moves, but not loosen them all the way out (think distributor hold down) i actually think the FSM has a torque spec for the adjustment--7 ft/lb IIRC.

- - - Updated - - -

Don't feel stupid, it is just like you thought, tap...and the valve will go either up (toward the column itself) or down (towards the k member). Has to be done with front end in air and engine running.

beat me to it Beastly!! lol
 
I've got a similiar issue. Mine turns to the left in park at idle without touching the wheel. Thanks for the info.
 
Yeap, just rebuilt my box and had to do it "beastlybirdie is correct". It sounds stupid but to make a little sense of it there is a valve that runs front to back in that block and a finger that sticks out of the box into it, centering the finger (moving the block) evens the pressure applied to either direction. The bolt holes are oversized with O rings, loosening the bolts and moving the block to either extreme will cause it to favor left or right but centering it will have a neutral affect. Just don't loosen them to much or you'll have a mess, that's why he suggest bumping it with a hammer. I'd check for worn items if that doesn't do it, a bad ball joint can cause binding along with other things. Good luck
 
Thanks very much for all the information and help........will take a "stab" at this in the next day or two......will post what the results are.......
 
Update: Put the RR up on the lift (2 post lift) to get the front wheels off the ground to see if the front wheels moved at all with the engine running......gave it gas a few times and no movement with the wheels at all. Was able to get the "binding" to happen with the car in the lift bay and when we raised it up a bit to take the weight off the front wheels and see what would happen the problem went away......
Next step is to remove the valve body off the steering box, see if it has any dirt or anything in it then re-install it and see what happens......will do that early next week.
 
Are you steering box bolts loose? Seems stupid to ask, but check those also.
 
It does indeed sound like the finger inside the valve body is a little off centre.

When I had my steering box rebuilt, the guys adjusted and setup up the valve on a special rig. Put it back in the car carefully to avoid knocking the valve body, and it has been perfect ever since.
 
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